The Leeds Pals: lived in Yorkshire, died in France – revisited

WordPress has reminded me about this post, written exactly 10 years ago, on 11th November 2016. I don’t usually post twice in one day, but really, which other day could I post this? And I think it deserves a second airing.

The Leeds Pals: lived in Yorkshire, died in France

It seemed such a good idea at the time.

At the outbreak of the First World War, a top-level decision was made to recruit men to the Army by encouraging friends, neighbours and colleagues to volunteer together as locals, to fight shoulder to shoulder for the honour of Britain and the credit of their home town.

The men of Leeds answered the call.  Carpenters, foundrymen, businessmen, men from the crowded streets of back-to-backs, men from the suburbs all joined up, bringing with them their brothers, their cousins, their neighbours and the men who worked alongside them .

They became the 15th Batallion of the West Yorkshire Regiment, commonly known as the Leeds Pals.

And they were sent up here to Colsterdale to train.  There was a whole village waiting for them:  a village that had been hastily built at the turn of the century to house the workers who’d been hired to construct the Colsterdale and Leighton Reservoirs, together with their families.  At Breary Banks there were huts, shops, chapels – everything they needed for day-to-day life. Although the Colsterdale Reservoir had been abandoned in 1911, workers were still employed at Leighton and at first labourers and soldiers lived side-by-side.

Briggate Leeds in the early 1900s (Leodis.net)

Leeds was a vast industrial conurbation.  It was noisy, dirty, grimy, smoggy.  Trams and those new-fangled trolley buses clanked and clattered their way round the streets.  Arriving by train in Masham, the new recruits had no alternative but to march the six miles to Breary Banks, passing nothing but clean quiet villages, stock-filled fields with woodland, then heathery moorside beyond.

Sheep in Colsterdale

For many of these recruits, the time that they spent at Breary Banks was the best time of their lives. They had a regular routine, good food, good company and decent accommodation. They dug trenches and learned the weaponry skills it was thought they’d need when finally deployed in France.

Colsterdale

In fact they first saw active service in 1915 and 1916 in Egypt and Gallipolli.  Few of them were involved in direct action, and by early 1916, most of them embarked on troopships to the real focus of the war, France.

After further training behind the lines they were sent to the front, in readiness for the battle that was intended to change Allied fortunes, the Battle of the Somme.

And that is when parents, children, neighbours and work mates left behind in Leeds discovered what a truly terrible idea it had been to send whole communities into the same battle at the same moment.

‘It was the most ambitious attack of the war and they were among hundreds of thousands of Allied troops massed for the battle.

Their coats were mud-sodden, their legs were protected only by the inadequate cloth wrappings of the soldier’s uniform. In their hands they clutched rifles they would never use, for in moments a storm of bullets had cut through their soft clothes and weary bodies, and they were dead.

Going over the top, Battle of the Somme (Ivor Castle, Imperial War Museum, via Wikimedia Commons)

Our young Leeds men were not so much beaten as wiped out. At 7.20 am with fearful, pounding hearts, they began to run blindly at their enemy. By 7.30 am a city of mothers had lost their sons, wives were widows and children fatherless.

It was one of the bloodiest battles of the First World War. As the men surged over the top into no-man’s land they faced a murderous storm of artillery and machine gun fire directed against them with pitiless accuracy by German guns. It cut through them, they fell into the mud in waves.

Yet those in charge had expected it to be easy. In the days before the battle of the Somme, more than a million rounds had rained down on the German positions all the way along the front.

By the time it was over, the Allies believed that no-one could have survived such a bombardment. The men from Leeds, and all the places beyond, were meant to stroll across no-man’s land.

Not only did that not happen but the casualties are so great as to not really make sense. The first day’s slaughter claimed around 20,000 English and French lives, and almost 40,00 were wounded.

Yet the carnage was repeated the next day, and the next, and for every day after that until four mad months had passed.

The cost in lives has never been fully accounted, but of the more than 900 men recruited from Leeds, it is believed 750 died that day.’

Jayne Dawson, Yorkshire Evening Post, 11th November 2013

This is Private Pearson of the Leeds Pals’ own epitaph for his friends and colleagues:

‘We were two years in the making and ten minutes in the destroying.’

Poppies, always poppies at the foot of the memorial to Leeds Pals at Breary Banks, Colsterdale.

Triangles

Triangles, triangles. That’s what Sarah, host of last week’s Monochrome Madness was looking for. I was enjoying life in Freezing France at the time, and wouldn’t play. So now it’s catch-up time.

Shall I go for decorative features, as in Granada’s Alhambra, or Harewood’s Christmas decorations a couple of years ago?

Maybe look up when passing by interesting-looking buildings? Here are two sights spotted wandering outside Museu Blau in Barcelona: mirrored and distorted reflections: and a glimpse of the sky between a forest of high-rise.

There are the buildings themselves. Half timbered houses (Angers, France here) and churches-with-steeples (Chichester Cathedral, England) can be relied upon to deliver triangles.

That’s enough for now. Slow down. Stop even. But if you’re still not ready to do so, the featured photo is your best bet. That was taken when a Big Wheel dropped into Ripon for one week only. So – sorry – you’re too late. It’s gone.

A Window in Barcelona

Walking down the Carrer de Santa Anna, because we wanted to visit … the church of Santa Anna, about which more later, we spotted this fine set of windows. It was such a narrow street, I coudn’t really get as far back as I needed to for a good shot. Never mind. You get the idea.

For Ludwig’s Monday Window, hosted this week by Brian.

And … We’re Back Again…

Brrr. We’re cold. Life in Spain was lived in the balmy low 20s, though our few days staying with friends where we used to live in France saw us getting up in the morning to temperatures of 3 degrees. It’s better here, but …. brrr all the same.

Our last day, spent on two trains in France, one that went from France to England, and one in England, was … interesting. Or at least the Paris leg was. We had to travel from Paris Montparnasse on the metro to Paris Gare du Nord on the metro. Here is Paris Montparnasse.

It’s immense, so they help you on your way by providing travellators getting on for a kilometre long …

And once on our metro train, we were helped on our way even more. Four stations en route were closed by order of the Préfecture de Police: presumably because five unions had joined a day of action demanding more money for wages and public services.

The left-wing CGT union put the number of people taking part in Thursday’s mobilisation at 1.57 million and hailed the figure as ‘a level unmatched’ since 2023, citing big protests in Paris, Marseille, Bordeaux and Lille. The only one of those cities we didn’t pass through yesterday was Marseille.

Arriving at Eurostar, staff were happy to bundle us onto an earlier train, presumably to release seats later for passengers who’d been delayed by the civil action. So we arrived in London just as we should have been leaving Paris. A good result, especially for the friend meeting us from Northallerton station who’d expected to be on duty at 11.00 p.m. and was instead waiting for us before 8.00 p.m.

More travellers’ tales to come …

You’ve ‘Done’ Barcelona. Now What? Part 5: Jardins de la Rambla de Sants

We’re very fond of Sants. Most travellers to Barcelona only know its station, the terminus for many long-distance journeys in Spain and beyond. It’s so much more than that. Once, Sants was outside the main city, but the advent of steam power saw it develop a vibrant and important textile industry, attracting workers in their thousands to populate the area and expand to become part of an ever-expanding Barcelona. Textiles and textile workers are long-gone, but this is a community proud of its past and with a vibrant and inclusive feel.

All the same. Railways ploughing through city centres are not lovely, and the train and metro lines here split Sants into two. Residents campaigned for decades to find a way of dealing both with the eyesore, and with the noise and dirt the railways bought with them.Finally, in the early 2000s, a solution: Instead of a deep – and costly – underground tunnel, planners built a concrete structural box (a large architectural “cajón”) to enclose the train lines. And then, between 2014 and 2016 – genius! the top deck was made into a raised public park. It’s some 800 metres long, some 30 metres wide, and sits 6 to 14 metres above street level, with many ramps, lifts and escalators linking it to the streets below. It’s crammed with hundreds of trees (such as tipuanas and sophoras) and tens of thousands of shrubs and plants. And benches to relax on. It’s a brilliant solution.

These were the sights that greeted us as we arrived. Bold street art both in the park itself, and visible below and alongside the elevated parkland

And no, nobody would come to spend the whole day in Sants just to see this. But there’s so much else …. to be continued – one day. Meanwhile, come for a stroll with us, enjoy the sights of the streets below, the history told along its length in the form of old photos.

And just … relax, away from the cocophany of the city.

One last shot from down below, as we left our overhead experience …

Fountains by Floodlight

Every October, Fountains Abbey open its gates on Friday and Saturday evenings to allow visitors to appreciate the site as the sun sets, darkness falls, the Abbey is illuminated by floodlight, choirs sing in the Cellarium, and a flotilla of food trucks cater to most tastes.

This year, there was another attraction: a lightshow telling the story of the Abbey, from its early days as a simple place of a life of prayer for a few devout monks; through its successful days as an important religious and wool-trading centre; to its dissolution by Henry VIII; its re-emergence as part of an 18th century water garden; and finally, as a UNESCO World Heritage site managed by the National Trust. All that history, colourfully and dramatically brought to life in 10 minutes or so, projected on repeat throughout the evening! It was magnificent, and a wonderful window on the past. If you live near enough and fancy this kind of evening out, there are two further weekends this October. Find out all about it here.

If the windows shown here aren’t obvious enough, here’s one more:

For Ludwig’s Monday Window, hosted this week by PR

PS. Radio silence for a while, apart from the odd virtual postcard. Off on a rail trip to visit Team Spain, then on to our old haunts in France for a few days before chugging our way home.

‘And Where Does THAT Lead?’

Egidio, for this week’s Lens-Artist Challenge asks us ‘Where does it lead?’ He invites us to be literal, with roads, footpaths, animal tracks, waves and railway tracks, or not-at-all-straight-down-the-line metaphorical I’m going stolidly literal.

‘The rolling English drunkard made the rolling English road.’ GK Chesterton.

But pushing a route up a mountain demands even less direct route-finding.

Hairpin bends in Cantabria, Spain.

Roads over a thoroughly under-populated chunk of Russia. The ony signs of human intervention – apart from little-used roads is that line of wind turbines. Some of those roads seem to lead nowhere much. Quarries?

But this road is FAR less remote, and also features a a wind farm. We’re in Spain again.

I’ll finish with memories of a dreadful walk with friends. We could have done with some kind of path – any kind – leading across this dreadful field. I hope you feel suitably sorry for us.

A well-placed footpath sign would have helped. The happy wanderers in the featured photo above probably had one. Or at least a good map.