Six Degrees of Separation: From Land to The French Intifada

On the first Saturday of every month, a book is chosen as a starting point and linked to six other books to form a chain. Readers and bloggers are invited to join in by creating their own ‘chain’ leading from the selected book.

Kate:  Books are my Favourite and Best

I am currently 108th in the queue at the library to borrow Maggie O’Farrell‘s Land, this month’s starter book, so obviously I haven’t read it yet. Here’s a hint of the earlier part of the story, disclosed by Google’s little AI pal. ‘Tomás and his reluctant son, Liam, are working for the great Ordnance Survey project to map the whole of Ireland. The year is 1865, and in a country not long since ravaged and emptied by the Great Hunger, the task is not an easy one. Tomás, however, is determined that his maps will be a record of the disaster. ‘

Maps then. I love a map within a book, and one of my favourites is that of the Hundred Acre Wood, included in AA Milne’s Winnie the Pooh. Drawn by Christopher Robin himself, the map includes a number of spelling and grammatical errors, such as – ‘Rabbits frends and raletions’ all of which only serve to endear Christopher Robin and his woodland pals to us even more.

Christopher Robin’s best ‘frend’ is Winnie the Pooh. So let’s go for Beartown by Frederick Backman, set in Sweden, my new obsession. But it took me fully 200 pages to get into this book. I was uninterested in this shabby little town out in the wilds of northern Sweden, and its love of hockey  And then, just under half way through, I became more involved. I began to understand how the town’s position on the ice-hockey stage could make or break this community. And a drama takes place which splits, and nearly sinks it. This is an engaging  story embracing the tribe mentality, and others who are outsiders not only in the hockey world, but life generally. Because life is ice-hockey in Beartown, and a single incident has the power to change the fortunes of an entire community.

Another Frederick Backman: A Man called Ove. I took against this book in the first few pages. It was obvious that the story line was going to be ‘curmudgeonly old man, widely disliked, is revealed to have a heart of gold, and after about 250 pages, everyone lives happily ever after‘. This is exactly what happened. I turned the pages readily enough, but was unconvinced by almost everyone but the cat. I didn’t believe in the friendly new neighbour. I didn’t quite believe in Ove’s wife Sonja. I wasn’t sure about his on-off (mainly off) relationship with his neighbour Rune either. But most of all, I didn’t believe that Ove would turn from irritable and irritating to everyone’s favourite grandfather in only three weeks. A decent enough beach read, but this whimsical tale was far too fey to appeal to me. 

We’ll stay in Sweden. And why not? When the Cranes Fly South: Lisa Ridzén (translated by Alice Menzies) is far better value than my previous choice, though it too has as its main protagonist an elderly man. This quiet book is the story of the latter days of Bo, who sees out his days in a small village in northern Sweden. His only visitors are his four-times-a-day calls from care-workers who sum up their visits in short notes that intersperse each chapter. His busy son Hans calls sometimes too, substituting stuffing his fridge with unwanted food for time spent sitting chatting. Beyond that he has telephone contact with his only friend Ture. And contact, through conversations in his head, with his much-loved wife who is now in a care home suffering from dementia. Though his best friend of all is his elkhound Sixten, whom he can no longer take on long energetic walks. And Hans, for the dog’s wellbeing, wants Sixten re-homed. This book is about Bo’s battle, after a lifetime of sitting on feelings and never talking about them, to make himself and his own wishes known. It’s an extraordinarily moving book, bringing up feelings about our own mortality, and that of people for whom we care.

Another story about loss, a very different one is Alice Zeniter’s The Art of Losing (Translated by Frank Wynne). I was engaged in this book from start to finish. It’s the 70 year story of a family, and begins in a village in Algeria, where Ali has made good and become a figure of some importance in his family and community. The Algerian War of Independence changes all that, and forced to flee to France, they become harkis (French Algerians), despised alike by the French and Algerians who remained in the home country who remained. A life of camps and sub-standard accommodation and work awaits them. It falls to university educated Naima, Ali’s granddaughter finally to visit Algeria again. This is a story about colonisation, immigration, and how to carry on in the face of the loss of your country and cultural identity, and is both a powerful history lesson and a meditation on the difficult questions posed by the cultural upheaval of being forced to leave your home country.

Reading Zeniter’s book prompted me to read The French Intifada by Andrew Hussey. It takes a long look at the inhabitants of France who come from the former French territories of Algeria, Morocco, and Tunisia. Much of the book is devoted to France’s possession of these nations, and to the troubles leading to their final independence. It’s a horrifying and illuminating story, and one that does much to explain the disaffection of many of the Maghrebin population in France. Hussey touches on the history of those North Africans who chose to emigrate to France, and examines the very recent past, looking at recent riots and at Muslims in the French prison system. Despite the seriousness of the subject matter, this is a book that is easy to read and complex issues are dealt with clearly. A compelling and disturbing read. 

Goodness. That’s ending on a serious note. But perhaps it was our starting point too? The first: the aftermath of the Great Famine. The last: the aftermath of war. Next month (September 5, 2026), we’re invited to start with our book group’s current selection, or if not in a book group, to start with the book that we’re currently reading. Well, I AM in a book group, so let’s see where I’ll start. Why not join in too?





A Number of Images

This week, for Leanne’s Monochrome Madness, our host Sarah (of Travel With Me fame) would like us to find a number of numbers. Well, here goes. The featured photo comes from Yorkshire Sculpture Park. Can I remember who the sculptor is? Not a chance. But this piece is big and bright and gloriously technicolored. I wonder if it’s still there?

Altogether more godly, righteous and sober is the hymn board in Masham Church announcing the choices of hymn for – presumably – the previous Sunday’s service.

Equally useful is this board spotted at Beamish Museum. As far as I remember, they’re the tokens used by employees to check in and out of work as they came and went.

Not quite so useful, but a lot more fun is this book, bought to delight my granddaughter and her parents, and anyone else lucky enough to have the chance to read this highly entertaining story.

And spotted once in France, a house number designed to include a small arithmetic lesson as you wait for the door to be opened for you.

Oh look! It’s past my bed time. I’m off …

Reflections on Malmö Windows

Something Malmö was particularly good at was windows and their reflections of the city beyond. For my last post in this series – though there might be one or two more later, here are some shots taken of our meanderings round the city.

For Ludwig’s Monday Window, hosted this week by Brian, of Bushboy fame

And that’s me done for a while. I’ve scheduled a couple of posts, and may send the odd postcard, but for the next month I’m on Granny duty both here, and in Spain. Where it seems rather hot for comfort.

Deutsche Bahn

Thirty-five percent of Germans now say they avoid the train whenever possible.
— HUK Coburg Mobility Study, highlighting the public’s deepening mistrust in the DB timetable following frequent delays.

German Railways – Deutsche Bahn – were famously, like all things German, Very Efficient. Punctual, reliable – everything both the commuter and the traveller needed. A few years ago, things started to go wrong. Decades of underinvestment led to increasing problems: cancellations, unpunctuality, breakdowns … By June this year, when we needed to travel through Germany to get to and from Sweden, punctuality was down to 59%.

Not a shot from our journey home. Not even taken in Germany. Unaccountably, our inward journey from Copenhagen to Malmö was on a Polish train …

Nevertheless, on our way there, we had few problems. Yes, our trains in Germany were a little late, but nothing to worry about. When, travelling home, we had a one-day window to get from Hamburg to home in England, it was a different story.

Overlooking Hamburg Station – almost, anyway.

Hamburg Station round about 8.20 a.m. Our inter-city train was announced to be about 10 minutes late. Ah well. Then – 20 minutes late. This was a bit more serious. We had a connecction to make in Cologne, to get to Brussels for our Eurostar to England. Then – train cancelled. We stood considering our options. Then they un-cancelled the train, which eventually trundled in. Our journey got underway. At Osnabrück we stopped. And stayed there, in the station. No movement. No announcements. The minutes ticked by. Then an hour. Then ninety minutes. Eventually we resumed our journey .

As we got nearer Cologne, the guard transmitted an announcement. Our train would be unable to stop at the central station (Why? We never found out), and instead stopped in the suburbs where most passengers got off, and caught an S-Bahn (metro train) to Cologne for, in our case, our Brussels connection, which obligingly waited for us. (It wasn’t our booked connection of course. That had long gone)

The station in Cologne.

In Brussels, our intended Eurostar train was well on its way to England. We started to explain our delay at the Enquiry desk. The words ‘Deutsche Bahn’ elicited immediate sympathy, and two reservations on the next train to London. Where, astonishingly, there was a train departing shortly after to Thirsk. We abandoned all thoughts of a leisurely meal at the station – the original plan – grabbed some chocolate, and ended up back home less than two hours later than we should have been.

By the next morning, news had reached us that had we been on German railways only a few hours later, our goose would have been truly cooked. The entire network, country wide, had come to halt for over two hours.

Imagine where THAT would have left us and our fellow passengers. Not to mention the hapless drivers and train staff of Deutsche Bahn, all hopelessly into unwanted overtime, and in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Has it put us off? Not at all. Despite that last day, getting round northern Europe courtesy of our Interrail passes gave us a stress-free and relaxing holiday, enjoying scenery and sights from train windows in six different countries in the course of our journey. We’ll do it again . Preferably dodging Deutsche Bahn.

Catching a shot of a rainbow on on of our (undelayed) journeys.

Malmö Calling

You have already had a postcard from Malmö, but here is a town that deserves more than a single-postcard mention. This city was our first Swedish stop on our Interrailing adventure: home in England via Belgium, Germany, Denmark to Sweden and back again entirely by train. Inexplicably, to add further international spice, our journey from Copenhagen was on a Polish train that had no intentions of travelling to or from Poland during its journey. Disappointingly, though we crossed the iconic  Öresund Bridge, we had not a single view of its 16 mile over-sea span from Copenhagen to Malmö.

Malmö however was far from a disappointment. Like many Swedish cities, it’s designed to be walkable and bike-friendly. The station was near the hotel, near the harbour, near to so many explorable corners. In fact I’ll show the postcard I sent again. It just showcases the city as I want to remember it: an exciting blend of old and new.

An evening stroll took us past part of the university campus …

… and to the main square, Stortorget. So much to see here! Its 16th century Town Hall and Kockska Huset, the Mayor’s house. The statue of Charles X Gustav who annexed Denmark to Sweden. The old Apothecary. I can’t show everything from the city in this one post, but I hope they will get their five minutes of fame at some point. Instead, I’ll show you a couple of scenes as night fell (eventually – this WAS midsummer in Sweden!)

We were up bright and early in the morning, looking forward to meeting Ann-Christine, of Leya fame, who’s set this week’s Lens-Artists Challenge: Adventure. And what a treat it was! She’d travelled an hour from her home to meet us, and Malcolm and I relished our time with her. We strolled down streets old and new, well-tended parks and inviting cemeteries, and of course enjoyed Fika, the most important Swedish tradition demanding we relax over coffee, cake and lots of conversation. We had an outdoor table at a park cafe in the sunshine and would happily have spent even longer talking.

I’ve had to limit the images I show, but I’ll single out some shoes. ‘Shoes on a bridge‘ is a permanent public art installation on Davidshallsbron (Davidshall Bridge), created by Swedish artist Åsa Maria Bengtsson. It features 29 pairs of bronze shoes honoring famous artists, entertainers, and cultural figures who left their mark on the city. Besides that I feature reflections on pedestrianised Södergatan; a (to me) unknown building which took my eye; and Sweden’s oldest fortified building, Malmö Castle. And of course, you can guess the last one.

And that was Malmö. It deserved far more time than we gave it. We’ll HAVE to go back, especially if we could meet Ann-Christine again. But the city had one more surprise for us. As we waited for our trains – the two of us for Gothenburg, Ann-Christine for her home -we saw displayed and always in motion on the station wall alongside which our train would arrive, images we could expect to our onward journey.

A Swedish Stroll

Our last evening in Kalmar. Malcolm decided on relaxing at the hotel, but mindful that the next two days woud be entirely seated on trains, I felt a walk was in order.

It starts very near our hotel. Kalmar’s Old Water Tower was built between 1897 and 1900 and operated until 1972. It was converted into 11 private apartments in the 1980s. The majestic brick exterior remains a central navigational sight, while I’m left wondering whether circular furniture is required.

I’m actually on Kvarnholmen (the city center island), which is surrounded by the sea (the Baltic/Kalmar Strait) and the town moat. So I decide to walk as far as I please on my side of the moat and waterways, and come back as far as possible on the other side. There’s nothing better than strolling along a path that’s vaguely urban – though tree-lined and traffic free – with more open views over the water, and little islands vying to be Bempton Cliff Marks III, IV, V etc. owing to being extremely noisy with bird life.

Eventually, I come to a waterway so broad it seems like a lake. I’m at the desirable suburb of Varvsholmen, and who wouldn’t want to live there with views like this, including the sight of the almost 4 mile long bridge connecting Kalmar to the island of Öland? This was once the longest bridge in Europe. We really should have gone to Öland , but … next time.

And then I pick out a route home by crossing a much more workaday bridge to find a different path. I know when I’m getting back into the home-zone, because …

But I’m done with surprises yet. Here’s the Cultural Centre, with its library, art gallery, theatre, creative spaces – all closed that Sunday evening, but still offering me two pieces I could find out little about, but still enjoyed.

And then onwards, past the white and almost homely looking prison, and over the little wooden bridge to the town walls, the water tower, and the hotel, for our last night in Sweden.

For Jo’s Monday Walk.

Monumental Madness

Figures in the built environment, That’s what Sue of Words Visual fame would like to see us produce images of this week for Monochrome Madness. She’s big on street photography, is Sue, and good at capturing a telling shot of a peopled urban street. But Leanne in her own post has gone down a different route, and as imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, so shall I.

I’m going with Monumental Statuary, and beginning on Greenwich Peninsula, with Damien Hirst’s Demon with Bowl.

Then I’m staying in London, and going to St. Pancras Station, to a statue I love to hate, finding it unutterably cheesy: Paul Day’s The Meeting Place.

Here are some details, including one of the vignettes at the bottom: lookers on.

St. Pancras Station is next to King’s Cross Station. Let’s catch the train to Leeds, and the ongoing bus to Harewood House to view Jacob Epstein’s Adam, naked as God had intended.

My featured photo is a few years old. ‘Around the Corner‘ was a literary trail designed in 2020. Scattered near Peter’s Hill (just south of the cathedral), these gold-lettered plinths read: What, are, you, going, to, meet, if, you, turn, this, corner? and is a quote from Virginia Woolf’s novel, Jacob’s Room. And I managed to introduce a small person into the shot, thus perhaps satisfying Sue with a spot of traditional street photography.

Is it a Castle? Is it a Palace?

We wanted to break our journey from Stockholm back to England. Kalmar seemed the perfect spot. It’s a coastal town, and a busy one. But at its heart is a quiet community, featuring a Proper Castle.

Back in the 1180s, there were nuisance pirates. So a fortified watchtower was needed. Here, the castle began. It was strategically – and ideally -placed near Denmark.

It was here that the Kalmar Union took place in 1397, a treaty signed at the castle that unified Denmark, Norway, and Sweden under a single monarch. Scandinavia’s history has long been intertwined in different ways over the centuries. Then in the 16th century King Gustav Vasa and his sons upgraded the medieval stronghold into a spectacular Renaissance palace.

That didn’t stop it being a defensive castle though. There were sieges throughout much of the first half of 17th century, though they petered out when national borders moved further south. Kalmar Castle’s strategic days were over. By the late 1600s it was used first as a prison and then – the shame! – a granary. It had to wait until the 19th and 20th centuries to be restored to glory, and recognised as a National Treasure.

Midsummer meant that opening hours were fairly restricted, and we didn’t see inside. But we enjoyed the outside, and even some internal courtyards.

It was almost as much fun to watch the seabirds. One small island nearby was so very noisy with seaside birdlife that I promptly named it Bempton Cliffs, though there wasn’t a cliff in sight. Herons seemed omnipresent – and successful fisherfolk they were too.

One extra bit of history, noticed by us and a black headed gull, near the castle.

This is a memorial to Kalmar Nyckel‘s first voyage to America in 1638, taking (in 4 voyages) the first Swedish colonists to America. I assumed that Kalmar Nyckel was a man. Silly me. It was a ship. Since 1963, Kalmar has been twinned with Wilmington, Delaware, the site of the New Sweden colony.

And finally, for the Instagram generation, here’s the castle again. A view through one of the helpful ‘frames’ which surrounded the castle.

I’ve probably not done with Stockholm yet. I’m jumping around our holiday as the fancy takes me.

Pottering in the Park

All my posts about Sweden seem to feature The Great Outdoors. That’s where we often wanted to be. I’m going to show you some of Gothenburg’s parks. They were a wonder. Immaculately maintained, beautifully planted. A refreshing mix of formal, informal, and wild-as-Nature-intended. Just like the parks in the other cities we visited: Stockholm, Kalmar, Malmö. Money shortages mean that many of Britain’s parks are shabbier than they used to be – even Harrogate’s former Jewel-in-the-Crown, Valley Gardens. So seeing such cared-for open spaces in Sweden was a treat and a revelation.

Because they were so near our hotel, we spent time in the Botanical Gardens, open every day, all year round, around the clock. But we barely scratched the surface. We went to Slottsskogen. But we only saw a tiny part of the whole (though we rather liked the maze). And on our last day, because it was right next to the station, we had a little time in Trädgårdsföreningen (The Garden Society of Gothenburg) one of the best preserved 19th century parks in Europe. Every one of these offered us open spaces; enticingly planted flower beds; water – both moving and still; palm houses; magnificent vistas. We didn’t get to explore any of them adequately, much less their wilder parts. Here’s a collage of pictures from all three parks. But please note the robot-mower which I spotted one evening in the Botanical Gardens,, moving methodically up and down an expanse of lawn, keeping it neat and tidy. When it had done what it had to do, it chuntered off and put itself to bed in its little hut.

A Quick Overnight in Hamburg

I am leaving colourful Sweden today (I’ll be back in later posts), in order to whisk to our last overnight stop abroad on this holiday: Hamburg. We arrived later than planned (more rail-travel misadventures to come) so explored the city not at all – this time.

Hamburg suffered catastrophic devastation during WWII, most notably during a relentless series of Allied air raids in July 1943 codenamed Operation Gomorrah. The bombing campaign caused a massive firestorm that killed over 35,000 civilians, destroyed more than 60% of the city’s housing, and left nearly a million people homeless. This sombre state of affair indicates why, though Hamburg is a city with apparently lots to offer, we didn’t see it at its best. We were so near to the centre which was first destroyed, then hastily put back together in many cases. These views were taken from the roof-top terrace of our station-handy hotel.

For Leanne’s Monochrome Madness: a theme-free week.