This week’s Monochrome Madness, hosted by Dawn features horizons. I decided this gave me the chance to whip us back to Sweden, which offers horizons in every glance. Mainly watery horizons, it’s true. Or are they cloudscapes? Whatever they are, they offered me, whether urban or when island hopping utter peace and contentment.
My featured photo was taken on one of our many ferry journeys, where we saw – unlimited horizons.
Our last evening in Kalmar. Malcolm decided on relaxing at the hotel, but mindful that the next two days woud be entirely seated on trains, I felt a walk was in order.
It starts very near our hotel. Kalmar’s Old Water Tower was built between 1897 and 1900 and operated until 1972. It was converted into 11 private apartments in the 1980s. The majestic brick exterior remains a central navigational sight, while I’m left wondering whether circular furniture is required.
I’m actually on Kvarnholmen (the city center island), which is surrounded by the sea (the Baltic/Kalmar Strait) and the town moat. So I decide to walk as far as I please on my side of the moat and waterways, and come back as far as possible on the other side. There’s nothing better than strolling along a path that’s vaguely urban – though tree-lined and traffic free – with more open views over the water, and little islands vying to be Bempton Cliff Marks III, IV, V etc. owing to being extremely noisy with bird life.
Eventually, I come to a waterway so broad it seems like a lake. I’m at the desirable suburb of Varvsholmen, and who wouldn’t want to live there with views like this, including the sight of the almost 4 mile long bridge connecting Kalmar to the island of Öland? This was once the longest bridge in Europe. We really should have gone to Öland , but … next time.
And then I pick out a route home by crossing a much more workaday bridge to find a different path. I know when I’m getting back into the home-zone, because …
But I’m done with surprises yet. Here’s the Cultural Centre, with its library, art gallery, theatre, creative spaces – all closed that Sunday evening, but still offering me two pieces I could find out little about, but still enjoyed.
And then onwards, past the white and almost homely looking prison, and over the little wooden bridge to the town walls, the water tower, and the hotel, for our last night in Sweden.
We wanted to break our journey from Stockholm back to England. Kalmar seemed the perfect spot. It’s a coastal town, and a busy one. But at its heart is a quiet community, featuring a Proper Castle.
Back in the 1180s, there were nuisance pirates. So a fortified watchtower was needed. Here, the castle began. It was strategically – and ideally -placed near Denmark.
It was here that the Kalmar Union took place in 1397, a treaty signed at the castle that unified Denmark, Norway, and Sweden under a single monarch. Scandinavia’s history has long been intertwined in different ways over the centuries. Then in the 16th century King Gustav Vasa and his sons upgraded the medieval stronghold into a spectacular Renaissance palace.
That didn’t stop it being a defensive castle though. There were sieges throughout much of the first half of 17th century, though they petered out when national borders moved further south. Kalmar Castle’s strategic days were over. By the late 1600s it was used first as a prison and then – the shame! – a granary. It had to wait until the 19th and 20th centuries to be restored to glory, and recognised as a National Treasure.
Midsummer meant that opening hours were fairly restricted, and we didn’t see inside. But we enjoyed the outside, and even some internal courtyards.
It was almost as much fun to watch the seabirds. One small island nearby was so very noisy with seaside birdlife that I promptly named it Bempton Cliffs, though there wasn’t a cliff in sight. Herons seemed omnipresent – and successful fisherfolk they were too.
One extra bit of history, noticed by us and a black headed gull, near the castle.
This is a memorial to Kalmar Nyckel‘s first voyage to America in 1638, taking (in 4 voyages) the first Swedish colonists to America. I assumed that Kalmar Nyckel was a man. Silly me. It was a ship. Since 1963, Kalmar has been twinned with Wilmington, Delaware, the site of the New Sweden colony.
And finally, for the Instagram generation, here’s the castle again. A view through one of the helpful ‘frames’ which surrounded the castle.
I’ve probably not done with Stockholm yet. I’m jumping around our holiday as the fancy takes me.
From Pyrenees to Pennines 
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