
For Becky’s #SimplyRed.
and Debbie’s Six Word Saturday.
My diary, revived from my trip to India back in 2007. This second part details my solo travels during the last three weeks or so.
Saturday 24th November
Up betimes and off. Why wouldn’t I be up early when I’d been woken by the Call to Prayer from the mosque at 5.30 a.m.?


The view from my window as I got myself organised for the day.
Gwen had told me how to get to the bus stop, so I did, and got on a bus and asked for ‘Temple’. Though he indicated he didn’t go there, he didn’t turn me off, so I wasn’t concerned, as Thanjavur isn’t a big town. However … we fetched up at the New Bus Stand, miles out. Nobody spoke English, so I chose the most built-up road, and headed, I hoped, into town. It soon petered out. I had no choice but to go back, pick on the local part of the bus stand, wait for a bus and ask any prospective passenger if it was going to the temple. Luckily it worked, and soon I was there.



It was a wonderful place. Exquisite carvings, a lovely atmosphere and I even got a good guide, so I happily spent a couple of hours there. Then the bank. It’s just chaos. Luckily I didn’t have to queue, but I still had to wait 20 minutes white a bored functionary filled in endless forms and passed me along the line to get my money.

A walk along Ghandiji Road (I was able to check because of the presence of a Ghandi statue); lunch at a great cafe; an hour on the internet, then back to the Palace Museum. What a dump. Dusty, unkempt, piles of rubbish everywhere, long unmown grass. But worst of all, a ‘guide’ who had the most rudimentary English attached himself to me, and I couldn’t shift him. So I didn’t go and see the Chola bronzes, the most interesting part. He also took me to a shop, which I fled from, though later I found another, with quite lovely things.
I walked back to the centre making friends with two stall holders in the outdoor market who wanted pictures sending on. Then shopping there for Gwen – very friendly people with no English who wanted to know my name, shook my hand and generally made me welcome. They laughed when I proffered Rs. 70 (under £1) for my purchases. They wanted Rs 7. Oil laps everywhere because of the Festival.



A rick home then a tour of the district on foot with Gwen to see the rangoli decorations lit with candles outside each house. It was all very attractive, and everyone was out and about admiring each other’s lights.



We went into two of her friends’ houses and sat down. I nearly boobed in one by all-but sitting down in the easiest spare place – next to the husband. That would have been a real faux pas! The home was very sparsely furnished: these people are young academics. Gwen says two bedrooms are more than enough as families generally all sleep in the same room.
We made pasta sauce, ate… and so to bed.
The fearured photo of Brihadishvara Temple is from Unsplash, by Avin CP.
PS. One of today’s suggested tags courtesy of AI is ‘Fiction’. Really. This is not fiction.
Some spotted drying in the sun from a window in Spain, and some sold from a market stall in England.

For Becky’s #SimplyRed.
something beginning with H. That’s what Sarah of Travel with Me wants from us today for Leanne’s Monochrome Madness.
Well, in among all the other acts, Ripon’s Theatre Festival included a few sets of Morris dancers – just as likely to be women as men these days. And they all flaunt terrific Headgear on their Heads. I mean… Hats. Here are a couple: and including two more in the featured photo.


Horses. I won’t show you show-jumpers, or mares with their foals in bucolic meadows. Here’s one waiting patiently for the 159 in Masham one evening as we were on our way to Photo Club. The last bus had left an hour and a half before. In truth, she was on the way to Appleby Horse Fair, an event that. although centuries old, isn’t as long-established as Morris dancing. This horse was one of dozens of horses and vardoes we see making their slow way there in the weeks before.

Let’s continue to be a little Olde Worlde. Here’s a House spotted last year in Vitré in Brittany, a town which boasts almost no other housing style.

Or shall we go for a little Hut in the grounds of Sleningford Old Hall, or a tiny House, fairies-for-the-use-of, in Nidd Hall?


Fairies make me think of other out-of this world creatures, as seen at Hallowe’en.

Not frightened yet? I can sort that out. Here’s the Hideous Head of a Gegant in Premià de Mar , and a Haunting Harridan from the Puppet Museum in Cádiz.


I don’t want to leave you quivering though. Let’s go back to Morris Dancing and Hats of course, and let the Slubbing Billys cheer you up. In black and white, and in Glorious Technicolor With Red Highlights for Becky’s #SimplyRed Squares.


The featured image, spotted in Buxton, in England’s Peak District sets the tone. Here is is, a cheery chappy, just waiting to receive your letter. If you write letters any more ….



Then there’s our local post box, still with an image painted on the wall behind dating from 2014, the year we moved here, and the year that the Tour de France started in Yorkshire, and passed through the village. And in a nearby village, the box dates from the reign of Queen Victoria. Look! ‘VR’: Victoria Regina. And finally, a box spotted last autumn topped off with yarn bombing for Hallowe’en.
For Becky’s #SimplyRed Squares.
Ripon Theatre Festival this last weekend: and Saturday and Sunday brought street performances and spectacles all over town. Best of all was that despite the incessant rain and intermittent thunder we were threatened with, not a drop fell while we were all out and about enjoying ourselves (and performing too, in the case of choirs like mine). But. What a cheek! Hardly anyone was decked out in red! I’m relying on photos from previous years to plug the Red Gap.




For Becky’s #Simply Red.
This rusting wreck is multi-tasking today. It’s lived a blameless and long life in the ruins of Jervaulx Abbey, offering views of the Dales and what’s left of the Abbey in the long years since Henry VIII had it made unfit for purpose during the Dissolution of the Monasteries.
Today though, it’s doing a tour of duty for Becky’s #Simply Red; for Jude’s Bench Challenge; and for Debbie’s One Word Sunday. It’s a little dishonest, as I’ve had to tinker a bit to make it Simply Red. Don’t tell the ghosts of those monks who once called this place home.

I’ve even managed a tweaked shot of part of the Abbey looking a little red too.

On the first Saturday of every month, a book is chosen as a starting point and linked to six other books to form a chain. Readers and bloggers are invited to join in by creating their own ‘chain’ leading from the selected book.
Kate: : Books are my Favourite and Best

The starter book this month is Michelle de Kretser’s Theory and Practice. I haven’t yet read it, but here’s something from the Guardian review: ‘In Theory & Practice, De Kretser gradually, delicately, picks and plucks at the notion of “truth” in literature…’


Well, here’s a book that looks at two kinds of truth, in Forty Autumns by Nina Willner. And it’s the story of her mother Hanna’s family she tells here. Her mother, aged 17, escaped from the newly-created and isolated East Germany, as Russia assumed responsibility for this area, while England, the US and France had West Germany. She did well, making a career, then marrying and moving to America. But her family was left behind, their lives increasingly constrained and isolated by the evermore authoritarian government there. She was able to have little contact with them, not even hearing when two brothers died. In the East, propaganda spoke of the degenerate and unsuccessful West, but prevented any contact. Her family – particularly her schoolteacher father – was under the government’s spotlight because they clearly were not uncritical party faithful. The fall of the Berlin Wall enabled them to reunite. The love remained, the contact blossomed, but the differences between their former lives cast a long shadow of bitterness and regret


Here’s another family dealing with differences among them, although of course, not the same kind at all. Albion, by Anna Hope.There’s so much to like about this novel: an evocation of a family, fractured in many ways, but coming together because of the death of its oldest member: father, husband and lifelong liar, bully and philanderer,Philip. A picture of an English country house (complete with a Joshua Reynolds family portrait) and countryside: now in the process of being re-wilded by father and eldest daughter in a project named ‘Albion’, – but had he actually wanted to hand the baton over to his son to continue down a different path, for wealthy ageing hippies? A younger daughter, married to a good man, re-kindling adolescent friendships and more with estate workers … or not? A resident ageing hippy … All this is so well painted. Enter Clara, who might have been Philip’s illegitimate daughter and who fetches up for the funeral. What happens from now on – but no spoiler alerts here – when Clara makes a dramatic revelatory speech, which in truth shouldn’t have been such a total surprise, totally changes the tenor of the story. What should have been a fine book is spoilt by this rather facile, bland and unsatisfactory last part.


Family difference is the theme in Forbidden Notebook by Alba de Céspedes, translated by Ann Goldstein.In November 1950 forty–three-year-old Valeria Cossati purchases a black notebook from a tobacconist – a ‘forbidden’ item as only tobacco could be sold from there on Sundays. This transgression informs the whole book. Valeria writes in her notebook only in secret: a good Italian wife devotes herself to home and family, without help from her husband or her two older children, both students. But unusually, Valeria also has a job, an office job. Her notebook becomes the place where she records her life, and that of her family. She vacillates between being critical and judgemental, and admiring. Her daughter enjoys freedoms she cannot dream of and in her diary she explores her conflicted feelings about this. Her son is academically lazy. Her husband calls her ‘mamma’. Her boss clearly finds her attractive, and she is not indifferent to him. All her tumult of feelings tumble onto the page of the book she must at all costs hide, because what if it were discovered and read? It’s a fascinating discourse in which we her readers feel as frustrated with her apparent acceptance of the role society has put upon her, as by her tangled ambitions to break out from these expectations. Her dreams are humble: to have space in the house for herself, and just a little time.


Another book about women and their families: The Coast Road by Alan Murrin. The novel, set in 1990s Ireland where divorce was still illegal, and revolves round three women (and Murrin is particularly skilled in bringing women to life) in different ways trapped by marriage, Colette – a bohemian poet – leaves her husband after her affair, and he won’t give her access to her youngest child. Dolores, married to a philanderer, is pregnant with her fourth child. Izzy has an ambitious and controlling politician as a husband.The lives of the three women become entwined as the plot develops, showing each of the men being unlikeable in different ways. Only Father Brian, the priest, comes out well. Here is a novel describing vulnerable, limited lives held in check by fear of scandal. Characters are all brought convincingly and sympathetically to life. Murrin seems to know well the world about which he writes, and even the ending, highly dramatic as it is, is believable and compelling.


And here we are again. Difficult family life, in Liars by Sarah Manguso. This is the story of Jane, writer and academic, who as a young woman meets John, a charismatic film-maker. They set out to construct a creative, equal marriage and apply together for artists’ fellowships, only for Jane to succeed and John to fail. At this early stage the warning signs are there. John fails and fails again, but they marry anyway. When they have a child together, Jane is doubly trapped. She and her (unnamed) son are dependent, because of the shrivelling of her career, on John’s income. The reiteration of a pattern, year after year after year is debilitating all round and exhausting to read about. Jane is increasingly a victim, increasingly two-dimensional. Finally – finally – John leaves them. A somewhat depressing book, in which the characters – there are only two really, as The Child only develops some kind of personality towards the end – deny the readers the possibility of liking them, or in my case, caring very much about them.


My last book, a series of short pieces, also often focuses on relationships: the mother and child. Jamaica Kincaid’s At the Bottom of the River,also writes about the natural world and achieving independence. The language is beautiful – often hauntingly so. There’s often wry humour: the first essay of all is a list – a long list – of how the daughter should behave in order not to become a slut. The entire piece is one sentence long… ‘This is how you iron your father’s khaki shirt so that it doesn’t have a crease; this is how you iron your father’s khaki pants so that they don’t have a crease; this is how you grow okra – far from the house, because okra tree harbours red ants ….‘This was perhaps my favourite piece. Kincaid is very good at lists, and this one is the first among several that contain them.
Nevertheless, I didn’t find this easy reading, and I often struggled to follow the drift. I hugely enjoyed Kincaid’s use of language, but remained puzzled by the book as a whole.
So there we are. A chain about relationships: which is the theme of most fiction, I guess. And next month’s starter book is The Safekeep by Yael Van Der Wouden. Kate’s review makes it sound an appetising read.
And here, nothing to do with this challenge, but everything to do with Becky’s Squares Challenge, #SimplyRed, is a surprise find in a flea market in Barcelona. Who knew that Just William was popular in Spain too?

Photo Credits:
Own photo
Own photo
Evgeny Matveev: Unsplash
Own photo
Siona das Olkhef: Unsplash
Segi Dolcet Escrig: Unsplash
My diary, revived from my trip to India back in 2007. This second part details my solo travels during the last three weeks or so.
I should explain. These next few entries cover the time when I stayed with a young American academic. I’d linked up with her through Couchsurfing, an organisation that enables travellers to stay with locals with a view to getting more of an insight into the local community than the average tourist does. Gwen was the only person who contacted me in Thanjavur, and I was a bit reluctant. An American in India? How wrong I was. As you’ll find out.
Friday 23rd November.

5.00 a.m. The station was heaving with life! Such a surprise. But it was a bit too dark and gloomy to read, so off to the booking hall. What a party! Well, no, not actually.- just a score or so of boys and men sitting in convivial groups on the ground collating the day’s newspapers. This took most of the time till 7.00 when Gwen arrived … on her motor scooter.
In fluent Tamil, she negotiated me a rickshaw and off we went. And at her flat, she gave me breakfast and the first decent cup of coffee of the holiday. I really like her. She’s lots of fun, and at the same time, very committed to her archaeological studies.






Towards 10.00, we hopped on her scooter and she gave me a lift into town, dropping me off at the Chola Temple. What a place! Magnificent multi-sculpted edifices – several separate temples all on the same site. I just explored for a long time. Then I mooched round town. I can cope with this one. It has a shape I can follow, though the streets are familiar now. Internet cafe, then a hunt for lunch. No language passed between us, but I got my rectangle of banana leaf, my choice of rice, and helping after helping of the various sauces dumped onto the rice. They went out and got me bottled water as I indicated I wouldn’t have that in the jug. All for about 10 bob (50 p in new money) and ½ of that was the water.


Eventually, I found a bank: a chaotic jumble of customers, with areas of desks all over the place behind which sat officials and their untidy piles of files. More dusty files in dusty metal cupboards, and for me, no sense at all of what happens where. I was shunted to three different places and told eventually to come back tomorrow.
Back to the temple and a rickshaw home. Gwen took me out to get a take-away – a ‘parcel meal’, which was indeed neatly parcelled with cotton and cost Rs.65. Lots of talking …and so to bed.
And so today’s Square for Becky’s #SimplyRed is clipped from the shot above, where goats were lounging in a disused brick-red building in the centre of Thanjavur. They seemed very content.


Ever-confident cocks today. You might argue that they’re orange-ish rather than red, but those wattles and combs tell a different story.

For Becky’s #SimplyRed Squares.
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