Indian Friday: The Bus to Chennai, and Hello Chennai!

My diary, revived from my trip to India back in 2007. This second part details my solo travels during the last three weeks or so.

The Bus to Chennai, and Hello Chennai!

Friday 30th November, and just a little bit of Saturday 1st December.

Today I couldn’t face an Indian breakfast, which is unusual for me, so I went to buy the jacket I’d been looking at for a couple of days and then to Hot Bread for breakfast. Final packing, and another massage from Lakshmi, who is of course very beautiful. She says she can say the days of the week, and times, and ‘please’ and ‘thank you’, so our communication was limited. A flurry of ‘Goodbyes’- Pascale it seems can speak Italian so we had a chat and he said how much better my Italian was than my French (Unsurprising. At that point we’d been living in France for a month). Balu got me a rick to the station and negotiated the price – RS. 30.

The bus was the sort you see in all the pictures. Unglazed windows with bars across, and an engine that had probably been put together c.1953. If the coach were a human body, you’d probably call it ‘lived in’. As it was in fact a bus, I’d say it had demonstrated a long history of near misses. Oh, and it may not have been cleaned since 1953 either. But the big excitement was a motorway. Well, perhaps not a motorway, but a toll road anyway, with dual carriageway, a hard shoulder and a central reservation. The road surface was indifferent, but so superior to anything I’ve previously met here that I can understand why everyone told me it was a fast road to Chennai. Anyway.

  • 2 lanes doesn’t mean slow and fast. Everyone uses both lanes indiscriminately and over or undertakes at will.
  • Goats use the ‘fast’ lane.
  • Cows use the central reservation.
  • Bicycles going the opposite way to the prevailing traffic use the hard shoulder. As do pedestrians,
  • Men pushing handcarts use the main highway.
  • The hard shoulder is also for bus stops.
  • There are zebra crossings. God knows why, nobody ever uses them.
  • Pedestrians cross whenever they want to. Not at the zebras, obviously.

So I was vastly cheered to reach the outskirts of Chennai a whole hour ahead of schedule. I was immediately seized upon by a rick driver who suggested RS. 250. Ha! Mind you, I never got him below Rs. 150. He said he was helping me, which meant that he took the wheelie case, me the rucksac.

I didn’t realise what a chaotic city Chennai is. It makes Bangalore look like a market town. Busy busy busy with chaotic housing and business districts jumbled together with shanty towns and piles of uncollected rubbish. I thought I’d got used to all that, but this was in a different league, especially after Pondicherry.

My CouchSurfing host (‘Call me Y…y’) plans to spend the weekend with me, but said she can’t after all put me up. So she booked me into a local hotel, the only one in the area. The Manager and I immediately fell out when he first of all denied the booking, then I declined to pay 3 days’ money up front, and it’s gone on from there really. I rang Y and walked to her house which is very close and met her sister and parents. She said there were no other hotels and she would ring and sort it out. So I reluctantly agreed to go back.

After a short rest I went over to Y’s. I’m not sure why I can’t stay, especially as I’m obviously unhappy. The excuses seem a bit specious. Anyway, I helped her make supper, masala dhosa, chatted a bit, then came back to the hotel. I had to get up at 2 a.m to ask the manager to turn down his Bollywood DVD he was whiling away the night with, and the traffic and hotel clamour began well before 5.00 a.m. Men loudly throat-clearing and spitting. Bring back the Call to Prayer! I complained about the shower, because I’ve stopped being nice (Response: ‘Well, is there water there or not? Yes? Well then!’).

I’ve been stomping round the area looking for another hotel, but it’s true, there isn’t one, good, bad or indifferent (indifferent would do). We’re meeting at 10 ish, to spend the day exploring Chennai, and tomorrow is action packed too. Monday shopping, then hit the airport early for a 4.00 a.m. flight home. Think I’ll go and see what I can find for breakfast: it’s only 8.30, but I’ve been around a long time today already.

Indian Friday: The Many Faces of Pondicherry

My diary, revived from my trip to India back in 2007. This second part details my solo travels during the last three weeks or so.

The Many Faces of Pondicherry

Thursday 29th November.

I was very greedy today! Up early to get the cool of the day, and found myself passing ‘Just Bread’.  I thought I couldn’t leave Pondicherry without having a continental breakfast, so I did.  Orange juice, pain au chocolat and coffee.  Good actually. The only problem was that I’d ordered the hotel breakfast the night before, so I made an attempt at the (very good) potato-stuffed paratha and sambal, but didn’t finish it.  Which didn’t go down well.  Hence no lunch.

I walked up to the Botanical Gardens.  Sheffield they’re not, but they’re not bad either and I had a pleasant wander.  Coming away, boy it was hot, and I tried to cut corners and go down side streets to get to MG Road (Mahatma Gandhi Road). I kept on going down dead ends, and while it was interesting, it was also embarrassing to be down the Gip (a then down-trodden area of Leeds). I hated seeming like a voyeur.

 In consequence, I got totally lost – I was well outside the French Quarter. When I finally fetched up on a main road I had no idea where I was and decided to get a rick.  Just as well, I was miles off route.  I asked him to take me to Mission Street/Nehru Road cross, and once there, I spotted some bag shops, so I got a wheelie suitcase! Hooray!  Hooray! (My large rucksack had been getting increasingly stuffed and unwieldy).  He was a nice guy, and measured it to see if it fitted hand luggage regs, and it did.  By the way, I forgot. I went to the market early this morning and it as so different from Mysore – just people getting on with life and not a tout in sight – mind you, it was only just after 8.00 o’clock. Just one incident, pictured below.

The buffalo who peed over my feet in the market.

The fish market, like so many parts of the market here in India, was often people selling just a few small fish- a bucketful.  Not really the same as France I think, where you might choose instead to have a small corner to sell your strings of garlic, and your small amount of tomatoes or onions.

Anyway, after the suitcase, I also bought a salwar kameez – I am so hot!  And back for a break, and a chat with the chain-smoking French woman who has my original room.  I really couldn’t share a car with her to Chennai, which is where, like me, she’s off to next.

A few random sightings whilst out and about.

I wandered off after non-lunch to change money.  Ha! ‘No, we are not changing money after 2.00 p.m.’  So I went to an agent and did it – a good rate actually.  Best yet. Suddenly I couldn’t face walking home, rickshawing home – anything.  I asked a posse of rickshaw drivers how much to the beach, and we struck a deal.  After we’d set off, I asked my driver which beach he recommended and he turned round and headed about 8km. north, near Auroville.  The beach was indeed lovely – not crowded.  Very sandy and palm-tree-ish, and I really wished I’d bought a cozzie with me. I settled for sitting on a dead boat, and gazing out to sea.  Oh, and collecting a few shells (I still have them on the chest of drawers at home)

After an hour, the driver, who had waited for me, brought me home and I packed quite a lot in the wheelie suitcase (Yes! Yes!).  Further chat with the French woman wanting to go with me to Chennai (No! No!) and also to one of Cristelle’s staff.  He speaks French and says there are no longer any French-medium schools in Pondicherry.  He – and I guess he’s 40-ish – is the last generation not to be educated in English.  What a shame.

I walked to the Bay of Bengal to say ‘Goodbye’and off to the Rendezvous for a meal.  I’m here now.

Later, I added this:I’m beginning to lose momentum, mainly through extreme tiredness, and the heat combined with dripping humidity. I’m greatly looking forward to another CouchSurfing weekend in Chennai this time. I think the experience will be very different from last time, if only because my host is much nearer to me in age, and born and bred in India.

Found at the Fair!

Now I’ve always hated funfairs, even as a child. Too noisy! Too crowded! Too scary! But I’ve always loved markets – local markets I mean, full (ideally)of stalls selling freshly picked lettuce and spinach, earth-covered newly-pulled potatoes or carrots. Local cheeses. Local fish. Local anything really.

But … I haven’t got time this week to curate photos from dozens of irresistible markets in France, in Spain, in Germany for this week’s Lens-Artists Challenge, Found at the Fair or Market, hosted by Anne-Christine. Most of my Spanish family is coming over for a fortnight. Hooray! So I’ll use this opportunity to present just one photo, taken when they were with us last year, and we visited Beamish and its properly old fashioned fairground. It can serve for Leanne’s Monochrome Madness too.

I’m off duty now. No posts (apart from Indian Friday, which I’ve scheduled). No comments. No visits to all the blogs I enjoy reading. My daughter will usually be working remotely: so we’ll be i/c the children, now 4 years old and 20 months. So … a different kind of duty, even more pleasurable than the world of blogging.

Indian Friday: A Lazy yet Busy Day in Pondicherry

My diary, revived from my trip to India back in 2007. This second part details my solo travels during the last three weeks or so.

A Lazy yet Busy Day in Pondicherry

Wednesday 28th November.

Well, up early, but not bright and early.  I wrote cards and had breakfast on the balcony, then waited to talk to Cristelle and ask her advice about shopping and a masseuse.  She offered to help, and together with another French guest we sped off on her motorcycle. 

This isn’t us on Cristelle’s motorcycle of course, but some schoolgirls spotted earlier. The featured photo shows the scene outside their school gates before morning school.

In a shop with bedspreads, she knocked the owner’s price down a bit but was still quite critical of it.  She took me on to somewhere else where I also ended up buying things.  By the way, I’ve changed to a downstairs room now.

Bilingual street signs.

A quick lunch at  @ Coffee.com (slice of cake and a lime soda) and then back for a massage with Lakshmi, whom Cristelle had booked for me at a price of Rs. 200.  Cristelle had forgotten to tell me to supply oils, so my precious supply of sandalwood oil from Mysore is all gone.  Still, it was interesting and I enjoyed it.  Then off to arrange postage home of my purchases, buy massage oil, and find somewhere to eat.

France in India. Once, the Public Works Department; a high school; and policemen sporting képis.

Before that though, I went to the beach.  Le tout Pondicherry was out walking there, so there was a convivial atmosphere – families, couples, old, young. 

Beach near Auroville

But the restaurant mentioned in the Rough Guide, La Coromandale, was horrible.  Dirty- you needed wellies in the toilets, and the fact that only Europeans and not one local eating there was, I thought, telling.  I really couldn’t be bothered to trail over to the Indian part of town, so I thought I would have to settle for European.  But Rendez-vous was wonderful!  Flunkeys at the door, certainly, but a busy happy atmosphere of the roof terrace, and a good mix of locals and Europeans.  There was a big menu, but the Indian choices looked good, and my meal was sensationally good.  A simple lentil and spinach curry, but so fresh and zingy.  It may well be one of the best curries I’ve ever eaten.  And I had my first alcohol in India – a beer, which really hit the spot.

I finished the day, as ever, at the great Internet point round the corner with the lovely geeky guy who helps me upload my CD with the pictures on.

Nowhere in my diary did I seem to mention my visiting the Catholic Church of the Sacred Heart, very near where I was staying. I don’t know why, as I was impressed. It was like a rather superior English Gothic Revival parish church, but in Glorious Technicolor.

Backlighting for the Bold

Oooh. For Monochrome Madness this week, Brian Bushboy has set a challenge and a half. Backlighting. What? I hear non-photographers ask. Here’s what Brian says: ‘Backlighting in photography is a way for photographers to create dramatic lighting. This involves positioning the main light source for a photograph behind the primary subject’. In other words, do what you spend your photographic life trying NOT to do. Take shots direct into the sun, or the light source, anyway. It’s easier in a sunny country, so let’s take the ferry to Spain.

I have no idea who this couple are. But they were enjoying a meal, a glass of wine, with the sun shining over the coast we were heading for.

And here we are in Premià, staying with daughter and family.

We won’t outstay our welcome, but nip down to Valencia. To l’Albufera.

After, we’ll come back to the UK. To Pembrokeshire:

The featured photo is from the UK too. No idea where.

And that is all I have to say on the subject.

Six Degrees of Separation: The Safekeep to Pachinko

On the first Saturday of every month, a book is chosen as a starting point and linked to six other books to form a chain. Readers and bloggers are invited to join in by creating their own ‘chain’ leading from the selected book.

Kate:  Books are my Favourite and Best

Thank you so much for putting Yael van der Wouden‘s The Safekeep on my reading list Kate. It’s a book which delivered so much, and also invites any number of ways the Six Degrees contributor could go.

I settled for looking at those parts of WWII little known about here, as far as the German perspective goes. and begin with We Germans, by Alexander Storritt. ‘What did you do in the war?’ a young British man asks his German Grandad. And is told, in the form of a long letter found after his death. In 1944, Meissner, a German artillery soldier, had been fighting with his unit in Russia, in Ukraine. But in Poland, he and a few others somehow got separated when detailed to look for a rumoured food depot. They see Polish villagers hung by unidentified men from a single tree ‘in bunches, like swollen plums.’ They witness rape and crucifixion. They steal a tank and use it against the Russians. They squabble bitterly with each other. They kill enemy soldiers without compunction. This is a well-drawn book, a deft exploration of the moral contradictions inherent in saving one’s own life at the cost of the lives of others. Though fiction, it’s clearly deeply rooted in the reality of the helpless, pointess horror of the last period of the war for those often starving people, both army and hapless civilians who found themselves marooned on the Eastern Front.

A book in a similar vein is Hubert Mingarelli‘s A Meal in Winter (translated by Sam Taylor). An account of three German soldiers whose task on a bitterly cold winter day is to hunt down Jews in hiding and bring them back to the Polish concentration camp where they are based, for an inevitable end. This unenviable task is better than the alternative: staying in camp to shoot those who were found the previous day. They talk – about the teenage son of one of them – and they find just one Jew. Is he their enemy, deserving his fate, or is he just like them, a young man doing his best to survive? What if they return to camp with nobody to show for their day’s hunting? As the men retreat to an abandoned cottage to prepare a meagre meal, their hatred and fear jostle with their well-submerged more humane feelings to provide the rest of the drama for this short, thought provoking book.

This reminds me of a book about the seige of Leningrad, which I read many years ago, but which made a lasting impression on me: Helen Dunmore‘s The Siege. The novel revolves around five interwoven lives during the war when Leningrad was completely surrounded by the Germans. Winter came and there was no food or coal, it was a brutal winter and one half of the population of the city perished. What energy the citizens had was devoted to the constant struggle to stay alive. Some of the strategies they employed will stay with me forever. Soaking leather bookmarks to get some nourishment from the resulting ‘stock’, for instance.

Let’s leave war behind, but looks at another struggle for survival in Cormac McCarthy‘s The Road: another book I read a long time ago. The tale of a father and son trudging through post-Apocalypse America. This is a land where nothing grows, no small animals are there for the hunting: where communities and dwellings are deserted and long-since looted for anything that might sustain life a few more days: where other humans might prove peaceable, but might instead be evil and dangerous. This book is bleakly, sparely written. Conversations between father and son are clipped, necessary. No speech marks. Sometimes little punctuation. Every ounce of energy is needed for the business of staying alive. This book, in which nobody lives happily-ever-after has stayed with me.

Oh dear, back to war, but staying with relationships within a family. V.V. Ganeshananthan‘s Brotherless Night. This book plunged me right into a war that had previously been an ongoing news item from somewhere very far away. The ethnic conflict in 1980s Sri Lanka between the Sinhalese dominant state and several separatist Tamil separatist groups is brought to life by the Tamil narator, Sashi. She’s 16 when we meet her, and an aspiring doctor. She has 4 brothers, 3 older, one younger. We follow the family’s fortunes as an ethic-inspired war breaks out, and daily life becomes more difficult, disrupting her education and resulting in her older brothers and their friend K joining the fray at the expense of their own education. Loyalty to a movement rather than family is alien to their parents. Tensions arise. Tragedy strikes. Normally conforming Sashi is moved to become a medic at a field hospital for the Tigers, because what is more important than relieving suffering, saving lives, whoever needs that help? As the war becomes ever more destructive, her personal conflicts and the family’s day to day arrangements become ever more complex. Years go by as the story unfolds. This story is impeccably and compassionately researched. It is urgent, intimate, written with striking imagery and immediacy. A distant conflict, several decades old is brought right into our homes and becomes alive once more.

Another book I read ages ago is Min Jin Lee‘s Pachinko. This too is about not civil war, but about two nations – Korea and Japan -who historically have a less than happy relationship, and how this conflict plays out in the life of a single family, throughout the twentieth century. Some stayed in Korea (South Korea in due course), and others tried for a new life in Japan. None found it easy. This is a book about resilience and emotional conflict passing down through the generations. It’s about well-drawn characters making their way in the world, sometimes with great success, but rarely able to escape from the shadow of their past. It’s a real page turner, from which I learnt much about this period of Korea’s history. Highly recommended.

I seem to have wandered rather far from the intimately domestic scale of The Safekeep, and spent a lot of time dwelling on war. I wonder what my next chain will make of August’s book: Ghost Cities, by Siang Lu?

Indian Friday: Farewell Thanjavur, Hello Pondicherry

My diary, revived from my trip to India back in 2007. This second part details my solo travels during the last three weeks or so.

Farewell Thanjavur, Hello Pondicherry

Monday 26th November

Rang Le Rêve Bleu  and found they could take me tonight, but only in their more expensive suite. I said my ‘Goodbye and thank you’ to Gwen and took a rick to the New Bus Station.  The loos there were – characterful  – with no individual stalls at all.  I was passed from pillar to post in search of a bus to Chidambaram, but finally established it was the oldest bus on the stand.  With my luggage, I had to sit in the front seat: prime location for spotting all the near misses.  It was all very slow – a 20 minute wait at Kumbakonam so it’s no wonder it took over 4 ½ hours.  But still, only RS. 39. At Chidambaram I needed a pee and was a bit hungry (the railway cashews and some of the bunch of bananas I’d bought at the bus stand had been lunch). I went to a nearby cafe, and established , with no common language available, that sweet lime was made with tap water but orange was not, so I ordered orange.  When it came, it tasted of orange, though it was very pale.  But when the bill came … it was for sweet lime.  Aaagh! 

Views from the bus window en route

I had a really modern bus to Pondicherry, with Bollywood DVDs on constantly.  But I had again to sit in the front, with my back against the front window, with the driver constantly shouting at me for obscuring his nearside window.  It was hard not to.

The scenery became more and more what I imagined Kerala would be like on the coast.  Very flat, lots of lagoons and lakes, palm trees, palm-thatched low cottages.

First view of the coast on the road to Pondicherry

Anyway, we got there, and I got a rick to Le Rêve Bleu.  I couldn’t negotiate the fare very well, as I had no idea how far it was, but I turned out to have been charged a Right Royal Rip Off (RS 75, so under £, so no moaning please!).

View from my widow in Le Rêve Bleu

 Le Rêve Bleu is a lovely, slightly seedy but French colonial style house, where I was greeted by a French speaking Tamil, who rang the owner, Christelle, who insisted on speaking to me on my mobile to welcome me.

I had a trot round town and ended up at an Internet cafe where one could also eat: mushroom pasta, but quite nice actually.  And so to bed.

In the night:

The street cleaners sit in the road and have a nice loud chat in the middle of the road outside le Reve Bleu at midnight
  1. Women street cleaners all chatting jovially to one another whilst working almost a street apart from one another.
  2. 9 dogs involved in a street fight, just too far away for me to take any action.
  3. Builders renovating the house opposite arrived at 6.30 a.m. and started noisily manoeuvering bricks off a lorry while shouting merrily at each other.  Some, by the way, were women.

Community Reds

I had various Red Images jostling for position on this last day of #SimplyRed. But yesterday, enjoying a cup of coffee with friends in our village’s Community Garden, I realised that what I want to celebrate today is … Community. Specifically the one that Becky has built up, in which the Squarers in particular have the chance to visit old friends and make new ones, and just generally enjoy the world-wide connections that blogging brings to our lives. Thank you Becky. Here are some flowers from our Community Garden. Very few, unfortunately, are red. So I’ve squeezed a clump of pink ones in as well.

Also, probably the first entry of the end of the month for Brian’s Last on the Card.