The Thames Path: From Canary Wharf to Tower Bridge

I went to London last week. But it wasn’t all about seeing family. I enjoyed a few hours with Sarah of Travel with Me fame, and the day after that, walked part of the Thames Path. This route does exactly what it says, and offers you the chance to walk from where the river rises in the Cotswolds, to where it joins the North Sea: that’s 215 miles. Which must seem pretty small beer to most of you living outside the UK, but it’s our second longest river.

I opted for the stretch between the assertively twentieth century business district of Canary Wharf – along the north side – to Tower Bridge, before returning on the south side. A walk of some eleven miles.

I rather enjoy Canary Wharf. It’s high rise, everywhere. But there are – slightly self-conscious – efforts to make it human-friendly. I found sculpture trails, and massed plantings in an around the various waterways. There are parks, and even mini woodlands with water tumbling about in mini waterways. Even the public toilets are interesting, as my third photo here shows.

But then it’s the Thames Path. And the water’s edge round here means wharfs and warehouses: reminders of a time when London was an epicentre for receiving tobacco, cotton, sugar, coffee, tea, porcelain, silk ….: offering hard and poorly paid labour to thousands in the Docklands and industrial towns throughout England, trade and prosperity to many beyond, and slavery to many of those who produced the goods we were happy to import.

Now these warehouses – handsome buildings – are repurposed, often as sought-after apartments overlooking the Thames. I saw too pillars of rotting wood poking through the foreshore- evidence of once-upon-a time busy jetties and quays. There were even a few mudlarkers: hunters for souvenirs of London’s past as a settlement even back to Bronze age times. And always the contrast between old and new in a single glance.

I arrived at Tower Bridge just in time for a lunch time sandwich. The area is glutted with tourists, but take yourself only a few yards away down the path and you can have a bench with this view all to yourself.

I didn’t stay long near Tower Bridge, built in 1886 or the Tower of London, built in 1066, both log-jammed with visitors. But the contrast between the very old and the extra-new captured in this shot appealed to me.

It was time to head back along the southern shore. This was easier. My morning journey had been hampered by diversions as a giant sewage system was being installed along the route of the path. My return through the evocative-sounding communities, reminiscent of Dickens (Bermondsey, Rotherhithe) was straightforward. It was here that I learnt about Alfred and Ada Salter, both born into relative privilege, who over a hundred years ago, devoted ther lives to alleviating the tough lives of the poor in Bermondsey. Quakers, Alfred was an outstanding doctor who treated poor patients for free and imported into Bermondsey all the latest medical clinics and facilities, creating in miniature an ’NHS before the NHS’. In 1922 Alfred was elected as MP for Bermondsey, representing Labour. Ada devoted her life to the demolition of slum housing. She built a model housing estate at Wilson Grove, campaigned against air pollution as early as 1913, and on the London County Council carried through a programme for the beautification of all of London Borough parks, children’s playgrounds and tree-lined streets. She became the first female Mayor of London – and the first Labour mayor! They insisted on living amongst the poor they devoted their lives to, and in 1910, their only child Joyce died of scarlet fever: a tragedy they never got over. Alfred and Ada earned the unending trust, support and love from the community they devoted their lives to. Somehow though, I only seem to have a photo of the statue of Joyce, playing by the Thames. The Salters were, I think, the kind of couple to gladden the heart of Anabel, The Glasgow Gallivanter.

A little further along is another group: commemorating this time the intrepid band we call the Pilgrim Fathers. They were a group of English separatists – Protestants with extremely severe principles – who in 1620 sailed to America on the Mayflower to establish a colony where they could practice their religious ideas freely. Very bright sunshine made it impossible to photograph them easily, so you’ll have to make do with this one .

As I approached Canary Wharf again from the opposite bank, it suddenly occurred to me there is no bridge there. Aagh. Transport links from this side weren’t ideal for me. Cogitating my conundrum, I noticed signs for a ferry that would do exactly the journey I needed. Here is my saviour ferry boat. But salvation comes at a price. My two minute journey cost over £7.00. The ferry company knows a captive passenger when it sees one.

But I had a day filled with interest and exercise. And a plan. Over my next few visits to London, I’ll be walking the Thames Path. I’ll start from – not the sea itself. That’s too complicated. But at Crayford Ness. It’ll be unlovely: but interesting. From the Thames Barrier at Woolwich I’ll walk the river’s course through London. Using my son’s family’s home as my overnight base, my quest may end as London peters out. But we’ll see … Watch this space.

For Jo’s Monday Walk …

and Leanne’s Monochrome Madness.

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Author: margaret21

I'm retired and live in North Yorkshire, where I walk , write, volunteer and travel as often as I can.

68 thoughts on “The Thames Path: From Canary Wharf to Tower Bridge”

  1. Fantastic photos. And I think in this case monochrome works really well. I would occasionally work in London (when I had a ‘proper job’ many years ago) and although I loved the City I never really had much time to explore it in my lunch hour. But, despite my loathing of most cities I think London must be an exception as I love history and London has it in abundance 😊

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  2. Sounds like an excellent plan, Margaret. I’ve always found London an excellent city for walking. When I lived there I had no money to do anything else. Canary Wharf was in the early stages of development then, and it’s great to see what it has become. I shall enjoy those trips with you. And weren’t the Salters a fine couple? They didn’t deserve to lose their daughter like that. We have at least conquered many of the illnesses that were life threatening back then. Thanks for this very enjoyable outing xx

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  3. I will read the rest of your post later, but I must comment on your link! Jessie Stephen worked for the Salters as an ILP women’s organiser from about 1917 and Bermondsey was the first place she was elected to the council (and was previously a Poor Law Guardian).

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  4. There are some handily placed Premier Inns around the City which we usually stay in for London breaks so I’ve explored some of the area you mention but not much of the Thames Path. You’ve spurred me on! I worked in the City in another life and loved reading some of its history in its street names juxtaposed with those bright, shiny buildings. Looking forward to more Thames Path posts.

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  6. A very interesting walk. I wasn’t a huge fan of London until I learned that it was far better when you ignored the touristy bits. Bermondsey is on my last for reasons you will now know! We are overdue a visit. We both have sisters there – one NW and the other SE so we tend to stay centrally and meet up with each for a day. And having read Jo’s comments, happy birthday!

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    1. Thank you! It’s amazing how tourists stick to the beaten track. The area round the Tower of London was hellishly crowded. Yet, literally yards away, I had a delightful spot all to myself to sit and enjoy a peaceful sandwich break overlooking the Thames and Tower Bridge. My city billet is in SE London too. Might meet you there!

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  7. My grandmother was born in Bermondsey, and presumably grew up in the area (they emigrated in 1921 when my father was 11). I haven’t done “the walk” as such, but have spent some time in the area and agree it gives a fascinating glimpse into the past.

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  9. Thanks for introducing me to this part of London. I am shamed to say I’ve never been there but seen plenty of it on tv 😀 cities with history are always interesting. But I like to travel to places where there is beautiful nature…

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  10. Well, what a fantastic time you had And most interesting history. And I shall be intrigued to follow your progress with your forthcoming walks

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  11. I should be getting ready for school, but I am reading about your walk! I’ll be in London briefly in July and there is so much to do, but this sounds like fun… not sure if my wife and I can do all miles, but we can do a small part of it! Take care and have an amazing Wednesday – I am down to nine days remaining in the school year.

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  12. What a fascinating walk! You might be interested in reading Ceri’s blog about her Thames Path Walk, she started from Tower Bridge and like you she likes to find out about interesting and quirky details along the route. If you start with her first post you should be able to follow her journey. I think she got as far as Staines before being stuck on account of back and hip problems.

    Much water, many bridges.

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    1. Thank you for the link, Jude, and what a great post about this stretch of the Thames which is completely foreign territory to me.

      I started at London Bridge – for no good reason – back in 2021 and through skipping a few stretches (Staines to Windsor being one) I’ve got as far as Goring on Thames.

      And yes, there’s the hip now which is super tedious but I’m determined to get to Oxford and beyond this summer even if in five mile chunks.

      Then – in the far off mists of future time – I plan to return to London Bridge and head downstream through the very areas you’ve described. I’m finding that the Thames is a fascinating river, central to so much of English history even upstream.

      Best of luck with your Thames Walk, Margaret. I’ll look forward to following your progress.

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      1. Somehow, your comment escaped me – so sorry – catching up now! You have been very committed to walking such large stretches of the path. It IS a fascinating river, the Thames, isn’t it? With so very much history. I’m not sure how easy it will be for this Northern lass to accomplish the walk once the river’s course is beyond London. I’ll cross that bridge when I come to it!

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      2. Not at all, Margaret. It’s very kind of you to reply. By chance, yesterday we were driving across the Pyrenees…
        Yes, a huge amount of English history is tied to the Thames and I hope that you’ll enjoy your exploration. As to logistics, I’m in Bristol which is not as far away as you but still enough of a distance to require a bit of planning. I did the London walks over two stays in the city which made things much easier. There are good fast tube/ train links into central London from as far as Staines. Then the journey times get up towards an hour but the trains follow the river pretty much to Goring and Streatley so you could use those if you have somewhere to stay in London. And with your stamina and distance I’m sure you’d be in Oxford in no time.
        Anyway, I hope you enjoy your trek and I’ll look forward to following you on your travels.

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      3. Thanks for all that! The London bits are OK for me as my son and family live in south London and well connected to all the relevant bits of the Path. And you’ve shown me that outside the city it ain’t too bad either. Let’s see!

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  16. What a great day out you had! I too have a fondness for Canary Wharf – I think it shows that you can develop an area but keep a human touch. And that south stretch of the Thames Path is a favourite of mine, in particular London Bridge to Rotherhithe. I discovered the Salters a few years ago and was immediately taken with their story. The sculpture of the Pilgrim Father is also fascinating when you study it and read up about it. He is actually supposed to be a ghost and the boy dates from the 1920s. Have a read of this if you’re interested: https://www.londonremembers.com/memorials/sunbeam-weekly-and-the-pilgrim-s-pocket

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  17. What a great walk. You passed so much history in one morning. I’d never get that on a walk here at home. I especially love the scenes of the old and new like Tower of London and the new high-rises behind. Maggie

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  18. Wow 11 miles, I’m in awe of that distance. Thank you for taking us with you. So much history and interesting photos. I loved your descriptions, looking forward to the next section of this project

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  19. I adore the Thames path, I’m so glad you enjoyed this bit. You’ll have to do the whole thing! Crayford I also loved but it’s not pretty, somewhat bleak. I made some great sound recordings out there a couple of years back. Another good read, thanks.

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  24. What a lovely walk and info you provided! The Tower Bridge view is gorgeous. You used the same principle we do here in national parks. One just needs to wander a bit beyond the tourists to get a place all to themselves.

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  25. I LOVE London and enjoyed walking with you today, Margaret, from the vantage point of my kitchen table. I have walked along the Thames – not as far as you. It is an exciting journey. The Thames’s rich history is palpable, with iconic landmarks like the Tower of London and the Houses of Parliament lining its banks. Each step is a journey through time, connecting to the city’s vibrant past. The bustling atmosphere, with street performers, food stalls, and the constant flow of people, creates an energetic and stimulating environment. I am looking forward to returning in a few months.

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    1. What I like, since I’m lucky enough to know the go-to sites well, is uncovering those nuggets that don’t make the headlines but perhaps were just as meaningful – or more so – to the people who were affected. That day I was lucky indeed!

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