Last time I stayed with my Spanish Family, in May, I happened upon a National Treasure in Ciutadella Park. This green lung in the centre of Barcelona has a bit of everything: playgrounds, palm trees, ponds, picnic areas. It’s even home to Barcelona Zoo.
But what took my eye on that hot day were two Victorian era glasshouses, one closed for restoration. I determined that Malcolm and I would check it out to see if the work was complete. It is. And what a glorious place the Hivernacle is in which to spend a relaxing morning. This vast iron structure with glass sides was built from 1883-1887 and designed by Josep Amargós in the Modernista style. He looked to England, to Chatsworth and to Bicton, as well as other places for his inspiration. Now modern restorers have looked to The Eden Project to guide them, and the greenhouse is once more home to over 100 plants, and forms the nucleus of the park’s educational and research programmes. We simply enjoyed the calm green space, with its restrained decoration and exuberant plant life. And the geometry evident in the greenhouse itself, and in the plants which populate it.
Besides this though, there is the Umbracle – the wood and brick (and glass!) construction designed by Josep Amargós at the same time as the Hivernacle, but for large shade-loving tropical plants. Seating is dotted about so that visitors can relax as they quietly contemplate immense and unfamiliar plant life. This building needs a bit of TLC, but still had the power to impress us as we slowly toured round it.
If you go to Barcelona, don’t miss out on this oasis of calm.
From Pyrenees to Pennines 
Lovelyy
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We thought so.
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How nice to have seating from which to admire the building and those lush plants.
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It’s a place that demands you relax and slow down.
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Wonderful buildings, Margaret.
I’ve never spent much time in this park – next time!
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There are quite a few little treasures worth seeking out. And a great deal of street art to entertain you if you walk there from the terminus of Tram route 6.
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What a lovely place. And I like the shot of the church through the arched window.
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Looks a great place to be when a bit cold!
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Yes, though it wasn’t as warm within as you might think.
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What a great place! Thanks for sharing these photos.
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And thanks for visiting!
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oh isn’t this wonderful – so glad it was open for your visit
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So was I. But it was a fun day, with more to come.
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excellent
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Great to find an oasis of calm in the city. I love a big greenhouse… or two!
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Yes. The first time I came across them, it was after a particuarly long and footsore day, so it truly was an oasis of calm.
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Do you venture into Barcelona much? Galleries and the like? X
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Not any more. We’ve ‘done’ most things now and have become such Country Mice that we hate the crowds. But we do try to seek out the places that most tourists (hooray!) don’t know about, Today was a case in point.
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Ah-ha, but we know now! Your secret’s safe with me, Margaret. I enjoyed Barcelona very much but I don’t intend to go back.
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Indeed. It’s a treasure, but the older I get, the more little treasures I find that are not so much on the tourist map.
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Same for us, in some ways. Just reacquainting ourselves with country lanes before the season starts xx
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Enjoy the quiet moments while they last.
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Wonderful! Another fine piece of restoration.
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Isn’t it just?
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A wonderful building filled with plants of beauty
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It’s a treasure. And luckily, not on the Tourit Map, apparently.
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A hidden gem.
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Indeed. And not so hidden either, being in a much-frequented park. But they seemed two little oases.
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What a wonderful (and geometric) find!
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A real treasure, we thought.
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I’d love to go. Another treasure in Barcelona.
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Gorgeous. I love the victorian greenhouses in this country and their spanish cousin looks every bit as wonderful.
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I think so. And they acknowledge the debt to the UK’s designs.
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I’d love to walk through this beautiful greenhouse. Wonderful photos, Margaret!
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Thanks Amy.
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Both glasshouses look lovely but I especially like the idea of one devoted to shade-loving plants 🙂
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It was such a lovely place to be in a busy city.
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There is something so magical about period glasshouses, and the Umbracle looks especially wonderful.
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Despite the fact that it’s now the one in need of TLC, I agree. Wonderfully atmospheric.
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My daughter and I did visit this park when we went to Barca in 2016, but I don’t recall any glasshouses. Always a magnet for me. I don’t suppose I will return though so thank you for the virtual visit.
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They are tucked away in one corner, and even then required TLC I imagine. It’s possible they weren’t even in use.
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This reminds me very much to the conservatories I so loved in the UK and also made me think of our French véranda. I absolutely adore greenhouses, and some beautiful ones were also seen and visited (incl butterflies and tropical plants, cacti etc) in Germany and Isle Mainau. This would be a paradise walk for me!
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I think so Kiki. It certainly was for us.
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What a wonderful old greenhouse. Pleased yo enjoyed some calm time. I ‘m with you on “try to seek out the places that most tourists (hooray!) don’t know about” – something that is becoming more difficult these days
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