‘L’auberge espagnole de la Résistance’

Ariège, Laroque d'Olmes, Patrimoine, Pyrénées, Spain, Walking

…. which is, being very roughly translated, our pot-luck picnic on the Resistance trail.

Posh picnic?  I think not. But it's the taste  and the company - that counts.

Posh picnic? I think not. But it’s the taste and the company – that counts.

Jean-Charles has long wanted to get us up to Croquié, a village high above the road between Foix and Tarascon, for a walk with a 360 degree panorama of the Pyrenees, and a very moving monument to some of the Maquisards who died fighting in the French resistance in World War II.  This really was the last Sunday we could go, and the day was glorious: hot, with clear blue skies and views for miles and miles in every direction.

Neither Malcolm nor I is particularly on form at the moment, so while our Laroquais friends yomped up a semi-vertical path, deeply slicked in mud, we went part-way up the mountainside from the village of Croquié by car, and then walked on up by road (a road, however, closed to cars) to meet the rest of the group.

Our first destination was the Monument to the Resistance.  This site, with views across to the mountains dividing us from Spain, far-reaching from west to east, was chosen as a memorial site not because it was a war-time battle ground.  Instead it was a training school for resistance fighters from France, Spain and beyond.  There are no barracks, no lecture-halls, no buildings of any kind.  Instead the men led hidden existences among the forest trees and rocks.  And now there is a fine memorial to them.  Singled out were two men who died in nearby Vira (the area where we walked last week) a Maquis stronghold, one who died in our neighbouring town of Bélesta, and one who died following deportation.  There is a statue to these men, who are nevertheless depicted without facial features.  In this way they stand representative for all the men – and women – who died whether through fighting, by acting as liaison workers, or by offering essential support by giving shelter, clothing and food.  Individuals did not pass over to Spain from here: the border is too far away.  Instead they were driven to one of the freedom trails such as those near Oust and Seix.  Petrol?  It could be organised, albeit with difficulty.  A key man ran a garage.

The sculptor of this monument is Ted Carrasco.  A native of Bolivia, pre-Columbian art  is a clear influence on his work.  He seeks always for his pieces to be in harmony with the environment in which they are placed.  His monumental granite figures look over to the Pyrenees which were the scene of their fight against fascism and the Nazi occupation of France.

Time to move on, however.  Our path took us slowly upwards through forest, along a track which became increasingly snow-covered and tough going.  However, it was only 3 km. or so until we reached the top, where there’s a refuge dedicated to the memory of its original owner, Henri Tartie, known as ‘l ‘Aynat’ – the elder, in Occitan.  The original structure is tiny, but served as shelter to many a Maquisard .  Now it’s a wood store, because a newer concrete annexe has been added with cooking facilities so that hardy mountain walkers can rest, make a meal, and warm themselves up.

We commandeered a circular concrete table outside, with apparently unending views of those Pyrenees, and somehow squeezed all ten of us round.  We unpacked our food:  as ever there was wine to share, rhum baba à l’orange, galette charentaise, biscuits – all home-made, of course.  Malcolm and I knew it was our last walk with our friends.  The fine views, the fine company, the cheerful conversation had a predictable effect.  We became tearful.  But so grateful that this walk was a bit of a first.  Extra-special views, extra-special weather for March, the chance to get close to an important slice of Ariègeois history, and our extra-special friends.  We shan’t be with them next Sunday: there’ll be too much to do.  It doesn’t bear thinking about.

The two of us, just after lunch.

The two of us, just after lunch.

4 thoughts on “‘L’auberge espagnole de la Résistance’

  1. ohhhhhhh M&M – I do shall miss you – you and your beautiful pictures and commentaries, it was such a good feeling all the time you sent me the “fruits of your walks”, and I also learnt a lot about Ariègois history and landscape – take care, stay safe and maybe you send me some of your “back-home-impressions” from time to time – lots of love, anna


  2. Très beau monument à Croquié. Je n’ai pas remarqué le refuge mais du parking il est aisé de monter au Fourcat encore enneigé actuellement. Vous m’avez dit quitter Laroque le 22. Les déménageurs viennent-ils ce jour-là?
    Le soleil brille encore ces jours-ci pour vous faire regretter de partir! J’espère que vous continuerez à nous envoyer de vos nouvelles. Et si vous revenez en Ariège en vacances vous pourrez entre autres venir séjourner plusieurs jours chez moi! Je suis encore en train de ranger! Jonquilles et roses de Noël éclairent le jardin. Bonne continuation. Je vous embrasse. Noëlle


    1. Par contre les déménageurs vont arriver le 18 ou le 19. Et nous avons encore a quoi faire…….. Ouff! J’en ai marre. Mais tu vois, on ne peut pas vous quitter.

      A la prochaine en tout cas, et nous aussi t’embrassons fort.


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