Tag: Modernista architecture

Geometry in Two Greenhouses

Last time I stayed with my Spanish Family, in May, I happened upon a National Treasure in Ciutadella Park. This green lung in the centre of Barcelona has a bit of everything: playgrounds, palm trees, ponds, picnic areas. It’s even home to Barcelona Zoo.

But what took my eye on that hot day were two Victorian era glasshouses, one closed for restoration. I determined that Malcolm and I would check it out to see if the work was complete. It is. And what a glorious place the Hivernacle is in which to spend a relaxing morning. This vast iron structure with glass sides was built from 1883-1887 and designed by Josep Amargós in the Modernista style. He looked to England, to Chatsworth and to Bicton, as well as other places for his inspiration. Now modern restorers have looked to The Eden Project to guide them, and the greenhouse is once more home to over 100 plants, and forms the nucleus of the park’s educational and research programmes. We simply enjoyed the calm green space, with its restrained decoration and exuberant plant life. And the geometry evident in the greenhouse itself, and in the plants which populate it.

Besides this though, there is the Umbracle – the wood and brick (and glass!) construction designed by Josep Amargós at the same time as the Hivernacle, but for large shade-loving tropical plants. Seating is dotted about so that visitors can relax as they quietly contemplate immense and unfamiliar plant life. This building needs a bit of TLC, but still had the power to impress us as we slowly toured round it.

If you go to Barcelona, don’t miss out on this oasis of calm.

GeometricJanuary

Geometry in a School

There’s a school here in Premià de Mar that I always enjoy walking past. It’s a handsome Modernista building that’s next to impossible to photograph, set as it is in narrow streets and surrounded by a high wall. It wasn’t always a school.

It was built in 1898 as a textile factory, dealing with almost every process: spinning, weaving and finishing. But here, as in England, and in the Ariège where we once lived, this once-thriving industry declined rapidly during the twentieth century. The factory closed in 1928, but re-opened in a last gasp attempt to make it work, as a silk-sceen printing works, the first of its kind in Spain. The owner was a man from Lyon, a M. Badoy, and locals came to call the factory La Lyon. The factory was forced to close its doors for good in 1979, but everyone saw that this important building must be saved, for historic and artistic reasons. So it reopened as a school in 1984. And it’s now called La Lió, and is quite the local landmark, with its tall – and entirely unused these days – factory chimney.

GeometricJanuary.

Sitges: a day at the seaside

Top tourist tip. Visit Sitges, as we just have, on a bright day in January. You’ll have the place almost to yourself.

We last visited a few years ago, when Emily took us to see the Corpus Christi Flower Festival in June. We could barely move for other people doing exactly the same thing.

Today was different. We mooched round enjoying the narrow streets of the old town, the Modernista buildings, and the wide sunny beach. I even paddled. Malcolm didn’t. 

A tasty tapas lunch was in a quiet bar in a quiet park. It was the perfect antidote to busy Barcelona, a mere half hour train journey away.