Walking down a busy main street in Valencia a few years ago, my eye was caught by a welcoming shady square. Through the palm trees I could glimpse a few columns – maybe Roman remains? and a steady stream of people drifting in and out of a handsome building.

Curious, I investigated. It was a library. The Central Public Library of Valencia. I went in.

How spacious, airy, beautiful and welcoming it was! Later, I discovered that this building had once been the first psychiatric hospital in Europe, founded in 1409 as the initiative of one Friar Juan Gilabert Jofre, to care for the mentally ill. It was called Hospital de Folls de Santa María dels Pobres Innocents – the Hospital of the Poor Innocents. This actual building was begun in 1493, and was and is in the form of a Greek cross, which housed the different wings of the hospital. It added general hospital facilities in the 16th century and also suffered a destructive fire.
During the 1960s, hospital facilities were moved elsewhere in the city, and the authorities began the site’s demolition: the church, the pharmacy and old medical school are gone. There was an immense public outcry. What was left was saved, and the building retained and developed as a library and archive service. Those columns I saw outside are not Roman, but surplus to requirements when the building was redeveloped.
It’s a fabulous place. Not only is it a welcoming, light-filled and serene space, it’s a busy one. It’s right by two of the city’s universities, so study areas are busy with students as well as the general public. The collections seem vast: the English section, for both adults and children was well-stocked, At one point I sat down in the section devoted to newspapers and periodicals and browsed through recent copies of the Times and Sunday Times and some more academic publications in English. Of course other European nations were represented too. There were book groups advertised, including a monthly one for children in English (obviously aimed at Spanish children, rather than any resident English ones); an ‘introduction to philosophy’ group for children; reading groups for dissidents; for theatre-goers; for students of Valencia’s social history, as well as the usual more general ones; photography and cookery workshops; lectures (‘Football now and as it used to be’). I was beyond impressed. Here’s a gallery of this library community at work on one ordinary weekday afternoon – before the pandemic – I don’t know how it will have changed.







Meanwhile, what have I been reading this last month? Reviews for most of them will appear over the next few Six Degrees of Separation posts.
Fiction:
Gabriel Chevallier: Fear.⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Delphine de Vigan: Based on a True Story.⭐⭐⭐
Donna Leon: Beastly Things.⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Patricia Lockwood: No One is Talking About This.⭐⭐(abandoned)
Sakaya Murata: Convenience Store Woman.⭐⭐⭐⭐
Jane Smiley: The Strays of Paris.⭐⭐ (skim-read)
Sarah Winman: Still Life.⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Non Fiction
Allan Ahlberg: The Bucket⭐⭐⭐
Charlie Gilmour: Featherhood.⭐⭐⭐⭐
Ann Patty: Living with a Dead Language: My Romance with Latin.⭐⭐⭐
For Bookish Beck’s Love your Library.
What a wonderful space!
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Just fabulous. A reason for moving to Valencia all on its own.
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Absolutely
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oh wow, now this is fabulous. What a wonderful place, how did you ever leave!!!
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Quite. I did love Valencia, and doing a language course there was the best.
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What a fantastic place! Both in terms of the original building and the expansive library now occupying those walls…Sadly, I am unlikely to see it
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It is a fantastic place, and in an interesting part of town, once you leave the main road. Yes, I see places every day among my blogging friends that I am unlikely ever to see now. But of course, I think I understand what you’re feeling.
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😊
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What a splendid building. Thanks for the book list too.
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Quite a mixed bag this month!
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Such magnificent architecture. Beautifully captured!
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I’m not sure I caught the atmosphere quite. But it’s well worth a visit if you’re ever in Valencia.
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What a beautiful space! How apt that you abandoned “No one is talking about this.”
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Good point. from what I know of you, I think you might abandon this book too.
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What a cool sophisticated space to have as a library 😀👌
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It is. So beautiful.
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Stunning! (And 5 stars for Still Life! Excellent!)
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Stunning indeed. And Still Life will make it into my Six Degrees this month. Not sure how, but I’ll shoe horn it in somehow.
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Now that is what I call a ‘brilliant’ repurposing. Thank goodness the demolition(ers) were stopped. I think Valencia should be held up as example to some of our mean little cities and towns here. I feel so often we either do fixed in aspic or total destruction. One exception is Alfred Waterhouse’s 1906 UCH hospital building, the Cruciform. It now houses the medical school, a library and various scientific institutes.
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But they did get started on destruction before the outcry. All the same three cheers for Valencia for another triumph: they forced the city fathers to re-purpose a dried out river bed into an urban park instead of a motorway: https://margaret21.com/2017/11/21/a-river-transformed-the-curious-story-of-the-turia/. People power seems to work better in Spain. Three cheers for the Waterhouse development though, which I don’t know. Yet.
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Yes, I do remember the dried river bed, another triumph. I think people power here seems to be of absolutely no concern to the current resident of Number 10. Dark days.
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Dark days, and also shaming, Friends in Europe, whose own governments have their moments in the shadows are beyond astonished.
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I can certainly believe it.
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Fantastic! And a big thank you for your contribution. I read a bit in Still Life last year but had to return it because it was requested after me. Looks like I’d better get it back out sometime. Glad to see you enjoyed Featherhood. One of my favourite reads from last year.
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It was an involving book – I think it was on your recommendation that I reserved it. Do see if you can get Still Life back again.
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What a stunning space. An inspiring place to study or just browse.
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It is – just wonderful. If the planners had had their way … doesn’t bear thinking about.
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No indeed.
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Dear Margaret
What a great library with an interesting history.
From the books you read recently we only read Delphine de Vigan’s book as well. We were quite impressed by her novel.
Keep healthy and happy
The Fab Four of Cley
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
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Yes, I enjoyed the de Vigan too (In a reading-it-through-eyes-squeezed-shut kind of way), but I reduced its rating to three when I realised the book hadn’t stayed with me in any meaningful way. Happy February!
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Thank you!
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Stunning! Cheers to the locals who led the outcry and to the leaders who made the decision for the library. Thanks for capturing this and sharing. … and if I ever make it to Valencia, I’ll check it out. How is the rest of the city?
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Oh, Frank, I love it. It has ancient treasures and buildings, good street art, a lively vibe. And one thing you have to check out is this: https://www.visitvalencia.com/en/what-to-see-valencia/city-of-arts-and-ciences/city-of-arts-and-sciences-monuments. And see my comment to Agnes above too! And, definitely your cup of tea, this https://margaret21.com/2017/11/25/snapshot-saturday-the-transformative-effect-of-lalbufera/
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Thanks for this, Margaret. The riverbed is quite transformational … and the modern architecture is more than wow!!! Valcenia is now on my wish list.
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It won’t disappoint.
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🙂
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Just the sort of library I used to advocate for when I was a consultant – bright, welcoming, and with lots going on! And I was interested to see you mention the Allan Ahlberg autobiography which had passed me by. I met him a couple of times, a lovely man 🙂
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He sounds it. I chose the book for my husband, who’s his contemporary and with a similar childhood, but I found it just a little disappointing: he’s more at home writing for children, I think.
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I’ve downloaded it to my Kindle to try on my upcoming flight 🙂 I chaired a conference for children’s librarians from all over the UK in 2001 and he was the after dinner speaker for the formal conference dinner. A few days before the conference the World Trade Towers were attacked and he completely rewrote his speech to talk about the dangers of hatred and division in the world and how we respond when faced with them. Combined with the fact that he’d not long since lost his wife Janet, which he also touched on, and there wasn’t a dry eye in the place!
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He does seem a lovely person : I remember being quite sad when his wife died. They seemed such a great team.
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I love libraries! This one is beautiful.
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It is. This one’s an easy library to love.
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Wow My….. this one is a true stunner! I would, just alone on the sight of this building AND its contents, move to Spain in a heartbeat. That IS amazing and wonderful.
Thanks for sharing. I hope that I’ll be back to view more of your posts Margaret. I have been awol for a long time as other things in my life were paramount. But I wanted to tell you that I loved the Donna Leon book. In fact, I’d read every single one of her writings and I must have read quite a great number of them. Sadly I can’t keep the titles apart so, if I haven’t noted the titles and what I thought about them, I am in danger of re-reading ‘oldies’ and might miss on newer ones… (worse things happen all the time!). Love from Switzie 😉
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I’ve missed you Kiki! But if even a tiny part of your absence was because you’ve been reading Donna Leon, that’s a good reason! Hope all is well xxx
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Small family tragedies and a minor operation of yours truly – but all is (or will be) good! 😉
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So sorry. I do hope that, indeed, all will be good.
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Oh what gorgeous photos. !409….anything that might have been built here was made of wood and gone oh so many centuries ago. Fabulous history and photos.
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Ah yes! We’re all about brick and stone over here, on the whole. And 1409 for you was definitely a quite different era!
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I must visit that library. So beautiful! You’ve been up to a lot of reading. I like the title “Living with a Dead Language”. That made me laugh.
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Did you live with it when you were at school? I did a bit. My mother was a Latin teacher
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Sadly, I didn’t have the chance. It wasn’t offered at my school. I did take Spanish and that gives me a good window on Latin. Cool that your mom taught it.
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I didn’t think so at the time 😉
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You were asked to speak and live a dead language more than you liked?
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😉
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What a fabulous space, Margaret. Heaven in a library! Digressing a little, can I ask if you reviewed Jo Baker’s ‘Longbourn’ at some point? Not sure if it was one of your recommends but I finished it last week and really enjoyed it.
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Not only have I not read it, I haven’t heard of it! *sigh* another book to read.
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Sorry! Picked up in a charity shop but I was sure I’d read a review of it somewhere. Not on your urgent list, anyway!
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😉
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What a wonderful library! Good thing they didn’t manage to tear it down. I wonder if Convenience Store Woman will appear in your Six Degrees chain in Feb? Coincidently, I will include it in mine. I am glad to see Still Life getting five stars. It’s on my wish list.
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Still Life will appear. I’m thinking about my chain, and I’m not sure I can work Convenience Store Woman in, but she will appear at some point.
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WOW!!!! Libraries are always wonderful, but this is truly extraordinary. I appreciated the back story on this building, especially the introduction to Friar Juan Gilbert Jofre. What a remarkable man. Thank goodness that the public outcry prevented the full destruction of the building.
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Thank goodness indeed. But why did they ever think such destruction would be OK?
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It is a mystery to me, too, Margaret! City planners have a huge responsibility to preserve history while creating space for an increasing population. Thankfully,there is now more efforts to seek public opinion. It is heartening to see that people are very interested in how their communities evolve. People saved this precious building in Valencia!!
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What a superb building. And a library. What more could one wish for. (A garden perhaps?)
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If it is so beautiful and light filled as a library, it must have been a very enlightened (sorry about that pun) hospital for the mentally ill. Unusual structure in many ways, then.
Interesting to see two stars for the Patricia Lockwood after you abandoned the book.
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I know. I could see it might have potential. I just wasn’t in the mood. Yes, what an enlightened hospital indeed!
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I swear, I gasped at the beauty of this place!
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So did I Davida. It’s wonderful.
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Beautiful library. Coincidentally, I caught up on this post while reading an essay in Umberto Eco’s On Literature about Jorge Luis Borges’s Library of Babel. And lo! Here’s the Valencia public library looking all Borgesian with its infinite delights.
I’m pleased to see 4 stars for Convenience Store Woman. I’ll also look forward to reading further thoughts on other titles in your upcoming Six Degrees chains, Margaret.
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You’ve been doing a lot of relevant reading Jan. And yes, reviews will happen in due course.
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