Tuesday. A trip round the Farne Islands.
Here’s our journey, courtesy of Billy Shiel’s boat. We pass one of the most densely populated housing estates in Europe – but despite having to jostle for a tiny space to call home, this community is not socially well-integrated . Kittiwakes don’t live with puffins. Cormorants won’t talk to guillemots. Grey seals loll indolently beneath the cliffs, doing as little as possible till hunger forces them into the sea to hunt. The stench is intolerable.
We land on Inner Farne, taking our hats as per instructions. This is why. Arctic terns nest all over the island and they have young to protect. We are the enemy, as they make clear, as they hurtle towards us, piercing our hats and hands with their dagger-like beaks. I nurse a war-wound on my finger.
We decide puffins are less bellicose. They waddle about among the undergrowth, occasionally pottering down into their burrows.
Then it’s time to explore further. The cliffs are cordoned off, but there, immediately beyond the fencing are birds in their hundreds, caring for their young. They’re close enough to touch. We don’t though. Being so close we can see every detail of their (usually ramshackle) nests, their plumage, the young unfledged birds, and this is privilege enough.
With thanks to Maureen and Andrew for organising this trip for volunteers at NT Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal, and to the volunteer rangers at NT Farne Islands for managing this special place, despite irreparable damage to their hats.
Wow!! I’m not sure about the terns attacking – that sounds pretty scary!! But would love to see the other birds. What an amazing day!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It was pretty special, getting so close to so many birds. I didn’t mind getting attacked, though I still have my war wound.
LikeLike
Oh how lovely to see the puffins and get a great photo of one in its burrow. Guess it’s the best time of the year to visit. Looks like the Arctic terns were inspirational for du Maurier and Hitchcock.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Definitely. One small bird not one bit dismayed by one large human. The puffins were a lovely sight.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Envious – one of my very favourite places!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I was thinking of you. I knew it was your sort of place.
LikeLike
Goodness, what an experience, thanks for sharing all those wonderful photographs.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It was a great day. Recommended.
LikeLike
Looks amazing… those baby birds 🖤
LikeLiked by 1 person
We were so close to them. Unbelievable. They didn’t seem to notice us.
LikeLike
What a great experience. Those terns on the attack are quite something. Puffins, at least in photos, never look completely plausible, though most endearing. Thanks for sharing.
LikeLiked by 1 person
They look equally endearing in flight, flapping their wings frantically and rapidly, and burning calories at an alarming rate.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I would love to see Puffins. When in Scotland we weren’t able to get out to see them 😦 Thanks for sharing
LikeLike
Well, when you do finally track them down, be prepared for lots of them. They don’t do solitary.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Superb. Thanks for the info 😀
LikeLiked by 1 person
Wonderful photos especially of the terns in action!
LikeLiked by 1 person
A dangerous occupation, I can tell you!
LikeLiked by 1 person
PUFFINS!! Oh my god, I love puffins. My favorite poem when I was a child was “There once was a puffin, in the shape of a muffin , and he lived on an island in the deep blue sea . . .” All the photos are great but . . . PUFFINS!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I know. I’m going to find that poem of yours. Pronto.
LikeLike
Oh, do–William will love it!
LikeLiked by 1 person
He will. I’m seeing him tomorrow, so I need to commit it to memory – now!
LikeLike
If you can’t find it, I can still recite it . . .
LikeLiked by 1 person
I love it! Google turned up trumps as usual. Now, I think you’ll like this one: http://slimpikinsitis.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/toucannery.html William can be turned from grump to laughter in a second if I recite it.
LikeLike
What great pictures! I’ve never been attacked by a tern, thank goodness, though I was once startled by a puffin swooping into its burrow under my feet (it was a steep and rocky path). What a fabulous day out. Lx
LikeLiked by 1 person
It was. I never expected to get so close and personal with all that bird life x
LikeLiked by 1 person
Incredible!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It was rather!
LikeLike
Fabulous photos what s wonderful trip.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It was. We’ll be back
LikeLiked by 1 person
You got some wonderful pictures! (Puffins have always been my favourite bird.) Seabird colonies are such special places. We’ve been to various, including on Skomer, Orkney and Shetland. I’m sure my husband would love to get to the Farnes. The scariest was at the far north of Shetland when both terns and skuas were out in full force. Not only did we wear hats; I also carried a strong stick to fend them off.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh, the Farne Islands are a must for your husband. I’m impressed by the armour you needed in the north of Scotland!
LikeLike
We loved the Farne Islands when we visited, not in June but later in the summer because of school holidays. The terns were still there and angry but not in great numbers as most had fledged their chicks. We saw puffins flying low over the water and other birds in the distance. We will have to visit earlier in the year next time!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I think we were lucky to visit at the perfect time. Well, the terns didn’t think so, obviously.
LikeLike
Your photographs are stunning Margaret – particularly knowing they were taken when under attack.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you. I’m a lot bigger than they are though!
LikeLike