Walking along the edge of Wales

A walk along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
A walk along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

We’ve just come back from a glorious long weekend in Pembrokeshire in South Wales, with son, daughter-in-law and her parents.  We were near St. David’s, Britain’s smallest city.  Its population is the same as that of Laroque d’Olmes, and in other ways too the area seems to qualify as Ariège-on-Sea.  Craggy mountains; fields of sheep and cattle; tiny one-track roads where the only likely traffic is a tractor, or even more likely, a herd of cattle coming home for milking; and long vistas, from the hill tops, of apparently endless countryside.  And of course, the sea.

Our objective was to cover a goodish distance along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.  It’s some 299 km long: we managed about 40 km. so we have some distance to go.  But what a journey.  This scenery must be among the most stunning in the UK.  Steep limestone cliffs and bays, volcanic headlands, beaches, inlets and flooded glacial valleys are the home to innumerable seabirds, and at this time of year, seals seeking sheltered nurseries to give birth to and rear their pups.

 

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For me, this was the toughest walking since we’d left the Pyrenees.  You know where you are there.  On the whole, you’re walking up a mountain.  Then you come down.  Whereas along the coastal path, you’ll be scrambling upwards to reach the top of a high cliff, before descending again, perhaps almost to beach level.  Then up again. After that you might swoop down to a cove before marching upwards to the next headland… and so on.  Bright sunshine, warm breezes, and bracing sea air cheered us along and kept our energy levels high…. until the evening, when we found ourselves drooping and heading for bed as early as 10 o’clock.

 

Sunset seen from our cottage near St. David's
Sunset seen from our cottage near St. David’s

10 thoughts on “Walking along the edge of Wales”

  1. Ah yes -land of my fathers and mothers! This is somewhere I’ve always wanted to hike and your spectacular description and photos spur on that ambition…but who are those red vested folks on the sea cliff and why?

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    1. Oops. I’ll have to put that right – thanks. I had a bit of trouble uploading photos this time and my captions didn’t all ‘take’. They’re ‘coasteering’ – doing mad things like jumping into coves from a great height, kayaking and so forth. Glad to have taken you for a walk among your ancestors!

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  2. The scenery looks stunning and it even the weather was good for you. 40 km is very impressive. Do you ever sleep? I know you don’t lay abed in the morning and now saying 10 pm bedtime is early? That’s a late night for me! OK not quite but 10.30 is,

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