Here we are, out in the sticks, just outside the boundary of the Gyeryongsan National Park.
Only it turns out we’re not really in the sticks. Down the road are two villages. They mainly exist for tourists, and are edged by hotels.
Not walkers in woolly hats and fleeces though. Instead, visitors lounge around in one of the dozens of coffee bars. The walkers – and there are plenty – just use the public car parks and then yomp straight up a mountain.
This is the scene as the sun goes down. The hotels light up, and stay lit up till six the next morning. There are displays of coloured raindrops or flashing rainbows.
Blackpool illuminations, right here on the edge of Gyeryongsang National Park. Best stay in and shut the blinds.

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