My diary, revived from my trip to India back in 2007. This second part details my solo travels during the last three weeks or so. From now on, increasingly exhausted, my entries become terser and frustratingly light on detail.
In Which I Make My Escape
Sunday 2nd December
Night came and endless hours of listening to traffic and my fellow guests noisily throat-clearing and spitting. I dreaded hanging around till 9.00 a.m. to go out with Y and her driver, being driven around and cramming in three Sites of Interest before 4 o’clock, when I’d be free to … return to the hotel. So at 6.30 I got up, wrote a note excusing myself, delivered it to Y’s house. and got a rickshaw to the Bus Stand. I knew I was being rude, but I was at the end of my tether and beyond caring.
It’s not easy when at the Bus Stand, 3 different people give you 3 different bus numbers, and 3 different stops, and the bus destinations are only in Tamil script, but I was determined to get to my intended destinaton, Mamallapuram, good and early. Chaotic Chennai traffic eventually gave way to palm trees, lagoons, and views of the sea, Finally I was happy.

Mamallapuram struck me as a more congenial place to be. Small seaside town , albeit touristy, With Added Culture. It’s a World Heritage Site with fantastic temple architecture and sculpture. I knew it dated from the 7th and 8th centuries CE, that it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and features intricate stone carvings scattered over a wide area, mainly the beach.

Walking down the street, I suddenly thought ‘I don’t HAVE to go back to Chennai tonight’. The first hotel I called at had a room for a mere RS 200, monastically simple, but clean. Outside my room is a shady courtyard, and as I started to talk about Chennai to the American tourist relaxing there, I just burst into tears. I didn’t know just how badly the noise had been affecting me, but I DID know that once I’d decided to stay here, a weight fell from me, and I’ve bounded around feeling I’ve got out of jail free. And of course I only went there in the first place to CouchSurf, which didn’t happen, for reasons that aren’t altogether clear to me.




I sauntered round being a tourist, getting a coffee on a roof terraced cafe, and in a fairly low-key way enjoyed the sculpture all over the place from the beach to sites at the end of town. In among are extraordinary boulders balancing precariously in the manner of Brimham rocks.





I had a salad lunch at an Indo-French cafe before returning to the beach and its treasures. At one destination, I found I’d made the huge mistake of arriving at the same time as 12 coaches worth of local university students. I couldn’t help comparing them with Emily and friends, in the unlikely event that their university course leaders, at her – or any other English seat of learning – would bring upwards of 200 students out on a Sunday afternoon to Do Culture. Instead of distressed jeans, subversive T Shirts and Attitude, the girls were sweetly young, quietly standing in pairs separately from the equally demure young male students. Luckily for me they were all made to wait outside quietly until long after I’d been and gone. Most people seemed to be there to have pictures of themselves and their families taken in front of the more famous sculptures, such as the life-sized elephant, so it was all a bit of a challenge, if entertaining.





I’ll go back to Chennai at the last possible moment to check out of the hell-hole and go to the airport. Luckily there are loads of opportunities to shop here, and I had some fun souvenir shopping – until I came to pay. For some reason, my card has apparently been blocked, which saves money, but could be awkward tomorrow….. Mal rang the bank for me and they say there is no problem, so let’s see.


But I’ve bought a toothbrush for tonight. Sorted. Later, I had a not very exciting meal in the rooftop restaurant above my hotel – in a powercut. My companion was an American/German woman flying home tonight, but she was a bit of a misery. In bed now, writing this, since I couldn’t get to sleep. And actually, I don’t feel very well….
What an absolutely charming day, get out of jail find some really interesting places to visit…. Unfortunately, we know it’s not going to last as you’re not feeling well
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Dear, dear Margaret, I seem to have been missing A LOT…. my heart goes out for you even though it mustn’t – it’s long behind you as I see, but, oh I can feel your then-misery and smile about your jail escape (even though i have no idea about the WHY in the 1st place). My eyes are sadly hurting very much and therefore I won’t go back to read what happened before, but before I must congratulate you to your stunningly clear and precise photos, such details caught in a great manner (surely not digital pics), carvings in stone, terribly hard to catch well…. you’re a wonder photographer. All the best, Kiki
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Oh, Kiki, I’ve missed you. And what bad news about your eyes. I do hope something can be done to at least stabilise them. And thanks for your kind comments. Those monumental sculptures were just made for the photographer. This was my first digital camera, and an early one. I wasn’t sure this digital malarkey would catch on. The short answer to my troubles was it was a very noisy and unpleasant hotel, and I couldn’t find a substitute. Sending warm hugs all the way across Europe to reach you.
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as for my eyes, sadly no. but I knew it as my mum had the same disease and all 4 children of hers wear glasses since a very early age. Not to worry, I see better with my heart and soul as my eyesight is failing more and more….
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Oh, I’m so sorry. I’d hoped for some ‘cure’. My husband has MD, but these days, degeneration can at least be slowed quite considerably with regular injections, so I’d hoped for similar for you. Your positivity is inspiring!
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Much more your kind of place. Breathed a sigh of relief with you. Love the beach and otherwise sculpture. Currently speeding through Bydgoszcz on my way to Torun. Gdansk was grand xx
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I loved Mamallapuram, AND Gdansk. For very different reasons.
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I can see why xx
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Love those elephants! I’m so glad you got away and I’m sure you weren’t rude. Slightly ominous final sentence. I hope it wasn’t the salad.
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Looking back, I’d been sickening for days. Wonderful elephants.
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I always liked Mahabalipuram. Relaxed place. Good for grilled fish and beer
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I never dared eat fish. It was where my son, several years before that got food-poisoning. And I’m not big on beer. But yes, a thoroughly engaging town.
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Mamallapuram looks interesting, and a much more low key place to stay. Escaping obviously did you a lot of good but I suspect from your last sentence that any good was short-lived.
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Indeed. But that day was a happy one indeed. I’d love to explore it again with head and body in better place.
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This does not sound like a fun trip at all. And to travel alone through it all would have been scary for me.
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The last few days were pretty awful (it gets worse!). Until then, I had had a wonderful time. I enjoy solo travelling.
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🤍
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Oh, shame you didn’t move here earlier when Yummy backed out of the surf couching offer.
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A full adventurous day, and the photos are outstanding.
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Oh thanks. This was my first foray into Digital, all those years ago.
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Oh dear! Last sentence sounds ominous.
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With reason ….
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😱
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I liked Mamallapuram, thanks for the memory nudge.
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It was a haven of peace, despite being a tourist hot spot.
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I enjoyed Mamallpuram, but found it interesting that your diary barely mentioned the site. It tells us how stressed and tired you were from the Chennai experience. Maggie
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I know! I’m so sad I didn’t say more because I WAS entranced. But as you’ll discover, I was in no state to be more intelligent and responsive about it. Such a shame.
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Can’t wait for the continuing saga…😊
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If you say so ….
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Oh dear. I don’t think this will end well.
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Glad you got out of town so you were more comfortable!
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Definitely a win!
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Oh my. There I was, thinking you had at last escaped but clearly there is more to come. I’m glad you had a temporary escape at least. And made some good memories to balance at least some of the less savoury ones at this end of the trip.
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Great memories. But those last few days …😕
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