The Bees and the Birds

What do you think of when Derbyshire’s Peak District is mentioned? It’s a  glorious area of England, part of its Pennine spine.  There are old stone-built towns and villages with long histories of hard work in mining, textiles and farming.  There are limestone and millstone grit uplands and escarpments, with distant forest and moorland views, and valleys and gorges cut deep into the limestone.  

A view from Hay Dale

We were there last weekend.  Not for the broad brush of those appealing landscapes, though we got those too.  Instead, we were there to inspect what we could see inches, or at most feet from us, as we and a small band of like-minded people slowly wandered narrow pathways and farmers’ tracks with Mark Cocker., on a tour which he organised with Balkan Tracks.

These were the tracks of our childhood, a time when (if you’re as old as me) flowers and insects weren’t routinely eliminated from the fields by cocktails of fertilisers and insecticides.  Nature Walks were the once-upon-a-time weekly staple of the village school where I began my education: a neat crocodile of children hunting curiously for leaves, berries and treasures for the Nature Table in the corner of the classroom. Our group last week formed anything but a neat crocodile, and we collected treasures through the lenses of our cameras, exchanged young eyes for our pairs of binoculars.

The places we explored with Mark often had poor thin soil.  It’s not worth cultivating, but huge numbers of wild flowers seek out and colonise such spaces and it can be pasture-land too.  Where there are flowers, there are insects: flying creatures of all kinds, bees of all kinds, beetles, moths, butterflies.

I knew there were a fair number of different bee species, though I had no idea that there were some 270 of them.  But I thought a bumblebee was a bumblebee was a bumblebee.  It turns out that there are getting on for twenty different kinds, and that some of those are cuckoos.  Cuckoos?  Well, yes.  Cuckoo bumblebees are as wily as the birds they are named after.  They lay their eggs in another bee’s nest and leave the workers of that nest to rear the young.

Erm… I hope this is a white-tailed bumble bee

We found caterpillars, we found flying creatures and bugs, we found moths and butterflies.  Mark was excited enough about one find to write it up in this week’s Guardian.

We climbed up to Solomon’s Temple. We wandered through Millers Dale, once the site of a busy railway line.  We explored a now disused quarry, now colonised by a rich variety of life, including orchids, and a collection of stunted trees.  Unable quickly to get the nourishment they need, they reach maturity as dwarves. We explored almost unvisited dales such as Hay Dale.  All these were limestone, but we had a little time in the imposing millstone grit landscape of The Roaches, which – don’t tell anyone – is actually just in Staffordshire.

Our days were far from silent.  Even if it’s no longer prime bird-song season, there were spotted flycatchers, willow warblers and sightings of various finches and tits. Wheeling above us: buzzards, red kites, hobbies, while shallow rivers, busily chattering over stones and rocks were feeding stations for dippers and ducks.

We even had a little time to explore Buxton, where we stayed, and where, each evening, we ate, talked, laughed and generally got to know each other at the (highly recommended) Brasserie.

Buxton by night

What a weekend. I’ve learnt that I still have an awful lot to learn. And our own garden is the perfect classroom. 

The ‘timeless’ countryside of Kedleston Hall.

kedlestone-049

Once upon a time, before 1066 and all that became the most famous date in British history, William of Normandy wanted to get his local French barons interested in helping him conquer England.  Land was the answer.  Vanquish those Anglo-Saxons and English lands would be there for the taking.

A lord called de Courson was one of those who answered that call and came to England, perhaps for the Battle of Hastings, perhaps a little later.  He was rewarded by being given many acres  in Derbyshire.  Over the years, the family name became de Curzun, then Curzon, and the lands at Kedleston which had certainly been claimed by about  1150 have remained with the descendants ever since.

Now it’s one of life’s pleasures to visit the splendid buildings of Kedleston Hall, a classical showcase of fine paintings, sculpture and furniture*, and to stroll round the grounds.

And what grounds!  When we arrived there the other day, it was sunny, with rain promised later, so we set off to make a three mile circuit of the so called ‘Long’ or ‘Ladies’ walk’.  How natural and timeless the landscape seemed.   A charming rustic bridge crosses a serpentine lake.  Woodland was just becoming autumnal.  Spacious meadows spread before us with grazing sheep.  Just as nature intended.

Except it’s all a massive con-trick perpetrated by Robert Adam in 1758.  Away with the out-moded formal geometric garden of Charles Bridgeman! He’d been the Royal Gardener, and only dead 20 years, but his work by then seemed suddenly hopelessly out of fashion.

In with the naturalistic ‘picturesque’ style promoted by Capability Brown.  Out with the public road along which the village straggled untidily, far too near the Queen Anne redbrick house which has itself been replaced.  Village and road were moved.  A brook was dammed and  excavated to become a lake, a stream, gently splashing weirs.  Adam had a ha-ha built – an unseen ditch across which unwanted livestock couldn’t pass: so much more natural-looking than a fence or wall.  Temples and other follies were built or planned,  pleasure grounds too. Sadly today only the hermitage is still around, and even this thatched hut is currently being restored.

If you wanted an afternoon alone with your thoughts, your sketchpad or your book, this thatched hermitage was just the place
If you wanted an afternoon alone with your thoughts, your sketchpad or your book, this thatched hermitage was just the place

Our three mile walk was crammed with pleasure.  There were waterbirds on the lake, Autumn leaves to enjoy, views across the park and surrounding countryside.  Where did the grounds end and open countryside begin?  We didn’t know and didn’t care.  And we hadn’t even seen the house yet.  You can get a taster here.

*There’s even a magnificent bedroom which has never been slept in and is currently being restored: designed to be used if ever the king should come to call…