Yesterday was the day when Malcolm was to have done his first ‘proper’ walk since his operation. But life got in the way, and at the last minute, he had to wait in for a workman. I went anyway, because I was ‘recce-ing’ the route ahead of leading the Ramblers on the same route in 10 days or so: and it’s a busy 10 days.
The route I was checking was a walk full of only charm and delight:
– because, unusually, I could get from door to door (not that walks have doors) courtesy of the bus that passes the end of the road. There are only 3 buses a day, mind you, so some planning is necessary.
– because it follows paths in the gentle sweeping valley of Wensleydale: a tranquil, lush and gently wooded area.
– because the walk begins and ends at one of Yorkshire’s ruined Cistercian abbeys – Jervaulx. It’s even more ruined than Fountains and Rievaulx, but it’s a peaceful place to meander through; to sit quietly; or to explore for flowers clinging to ancient architraves, or topping off columns which no longer have any roof to support.
– because the path I took leads through English parkland which at this time of year is home not only to sheep, but to their young lambs, busily feeding, playing ‘I’m the king of the castle’, and having lamb-races, before cuddling up with mum for another little sleep.
– because Thornton Steward, a quarter of the way through the walk, is a picture postcard of a village. There’s a green where you can rest for a while whilst looking beyond the cottages to Wensleydale beyond. Even better, there is a village hall. You won’t find anyone there, but the door is open. The villagers encourage you to come in, make yourself a drink, help yourself to a biscuit, and have a ‘comfort break’. Whilst relaxing, you could browse the books on display in two large bookcases. Swap one of your own if you have one, or if not, make a donation and take a book away.
– because just outside Thornton Steward is the charming, tiny, isolated church of Saint Oswald. Mainly Early English, it still has fragments – parts of the nave wall and the porch door – dating from before 1066.
– because at the edge of a field quite near the church, some lucky child’s dad, or granddad has made a very special tiny secret den from an ancient hollow tree. Just look at this:
– because I passed Danby Hall, as well, begun in the 15th century and finally finished in the 19th century. Danby Hall was once the home of the Scrope family, a Catholic family of some influence who hid priests, attended clandestine masses and somehow survived the turbulent times of Tudor-Elizabethan England.
– because most of the second half of the walk is along the River Ure. On one side, it’s all woods, wild garlic and wood anemones. On the other, open views across the river itself, and Wensleydale beyond.
– because the route was so well way-marked that I barely needed a map to find my way round.
– and because of honesty boxes. That’s how you know you’re not in the city. Park at Jervaulx Abbey and there’s an honesty box so you can pay the parking charge. Visit the Abbey itself, and there’s another one. And at Thornton Steward they encourage you to make a donation for your refreshments: but no-one checks up: it’s up to you to do the right thing.
On the walk, I thought of poor old Malcolm, stuck at home whilst I enjoyed one of the very first summer days, bright, fresh, and really rather hot. I thought of one of my fellow bloggers, Sharon, whom – very exciting, this – we’re going to meet in a fortnight or so when she comes to visit Yorkshire: she might like this walk. And I thought of another fellow blogger, Kerry, an American , who’d probably love to use the wool all those lambs and sheep are busily growing in one of her weaving projects, even though wool isn’t usually her chosen medium.
From Pyrenees to Pennines 
what am I doing, just ‘liking’ this: it’s absolutely lovely!
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Thank you. You must come and try it one day!
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One of our favourite walks although we start at the Cover Inn and do the riverside section first.
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I think you could be right Penny. I thought of that too. But parking several cars there could be difficult. Or do you know differently?
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This looks like a very beautiful and interesting walk. I was wondering roughly how far it is and how long does an average walker take. My father is a sturdy 82 year old and is very able on a 3 hour walk in the Broads area, but I can’t tell from your charming pictures how rough and hilly this walk is, is it quite physical? Jervaulx looks fascinating.
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Well, It’s about 7 miles and pretty level: but there ARE stiles. Here’s the route: http://www.nidderdaleaonb.org.uk/Documents/Walks/JervaulxAbbeyToThorntonSteward_web.pdf. Because there are several places to stop: I didn’t mention the Cover Inn which comes about three quarters of the way through the walk too, it should be fine, so long as stiles aren’t too much of a problem.
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Thank you so much for the info and the link. It sounds very doable and stiles aren’t a problem. I hope we can walk it at some time. Thanks again.
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Pete’s in a Walking Group and organised this very walk last year. He rang the Cover Inn landlord who was happy to let people park in his car park as long as they had a drink after the walk.
This probably wouldn’t work for your group.
We tend to park in the layby as you come out of the track leading out of Danby Hall but there’s probably only room for 3 or 4 cars there. Jervaulx is probably your best bet!
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The Cover Inn as a pit stop would suit everyone, but it turns out to be Bank Holiday Sunday, so it could be really busy. We’ll have to see. Thanks.
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Lovely walk. Hope Malcolm’s mending.
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He’s doing pretty well thanks. The fact that he could even contemplate a 7 mile walk is really encouraging. What about you?
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improving slowly, thanks. No painkillers for a month. Delivering leaflets really helps, canvassing less so because of the standing. Thankfully the end is in sight and by this time two weeks hence I shall know my fate.
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Great news that you’re painkiller free. And I hope pain-free too. Good luck : I hope your hard work pays off.
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Oh, Margaret–what a walk! Thank you for thinking of me as you walked–I wish I could’ve been there since the whole thing is exactly what I love about England! Jervaulx looks so evocative and I’d want to bring those lambs home! You need to go back when Malcolm can join you!
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Oh, it’s a walk to add to the regular outings: pleasures in every season, I think. Sadly, lambs grow up, don’t they? Sheep just aren’t the same……
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That is one beautiful walk 🙂 And cheesy too as Jervaulx Abbey is thought to be where the original Wensleydale recipe was developed by the French monks there!
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I didn’t know that. But neither did I know about the pecorino from Leeds. Have you read this about some Italian cheeses? https://racheleats.wordpress.com/2015/04/24/where-it-comes-from/. I thought of you as I read it.
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Mind reader! As I was reading I thought “This looks perfect for us, I must get the route from Margaret” and then I find my name in print. Yep it looks like a showcase for the best of the Yorkshire Dales. I’ll drop you an email so we can arrange our ‘date’!
Hope Malcolm is on his way to a full recovery.
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Ooh, good. I’m doing my best to keep the weather on track 😉
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And sheep 🙂
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Always sheep here for you, Sharon….
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